Lowering Blocks?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by Tphil413, Oct 1, 2007.

  1. Tphil413

    Tphil413 Veteran Member

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    Jun 1, 2007
    San Francisco, CA
    Wondering if any of you are running lowering blocks in the rear leafs? I am trying to lower my back end about 1", but can't seem to find any lowering blocks made for a '71 Camaro. If you are running them currently, can you suggest a brand or even better a part number?
     
  2. pete0331

    pete0331 Veteran Member

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    Mar 26, 2006
    Kitsap, WA
    I wouldn't suggest using lowering blocks. They aren't the best thing for the suspension geometry.
    Get new springs that lower the rear end
    OR if you don't have the cash for that take, the springs and get them re-arched.
     
  3. onovakind67

    onovakind67 Veteran Member

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    Jul 8, 2001
    Fairfield, CA
    You can buy lowering blocks at most auto parts stores or places like Summit and Jegs. It's an easy installation, and 1" of block will have little effect on the function of the rear suspension. Here's what AFCO racing has to say in their tech section:

    LOWERING BLOCKS
    Lowering blocks are generally used to change the ride height of the chassis. Lowering blocks can also be used to adjust wedge when multi-leafs are used. The addition of lowering blocks can cause less tightæ roll steer which will help the chassis to turn. If lowering blocks drop either or both spring eye positions relative to the axle then the rear roll center height will be lowered and chassis roll, along with rear side bite, will increase.

    Too much lowering block* can cause the forward thrust of the rear axle to prevent the leafs (or torque arm) from wrapping up and absorbing engine torque. Consequently, forward bite is diminished. A symptom of this problem shows up on torque arm equipped cars as very little 5th coil/shock movement.
    *The distance between the bottom of the axle tube and the top of the leaf should not exceed 4 1/2". What to look for in a quality leaf spring: 1. Smooth, continuous and consistent arch 2. No lengthwise twist 3. High strength steel 4. Heat treated 5. Tension side of leaf shot-peened for increased durability (produces a satin smooth finish) 6. Rubbing blocks between secondary leafs 7. Secondary leafs taper cut at ends. 8. Proper eye alignment (front and rear eyes should be parallel in all directions).



    http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml
     
  4. John Wright

    John Wright Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Aug 9, 2002
    Rustburg, Va
    Also...using a 1" tapered block will help keep your driveline angles in check, and you could add the tapered shims if necessary. I wouldn't go overboard with the lowering blocks though...but IMHO the 1" block will be fine.
     
  5. 67lemanster

    67lemanster Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    12,660
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    Oct 20, 2003
    I AM ILK
    i agree 1" and less is fine. i wouldnt go any more than that though.
     
  6. Tphil413

    Tphil413 Veteran Member

    219
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    Jun 1, 2007
    San Francisco, CA
    Thanks for all your responses. I have run them successfully in the past on my '70 RS but was having no luck finding one's designed for my application. Everything out there seems to be for lower trucks. Was hoping one of you could help me get a line on a brand or online store that might sell ones that fit a 2nd gen successfully.
     
  7. John Wright

    John Wright Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Aug 9, 2002
    Rustburg, Va
    I'm asking because I didn't realize there was a difference....why can't you run the same 1" block as say a S-10? I think the spring pads on the axle are the same...aren't they?
     
  8. protour73

    protour73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Sep 21, 2006
    West of Chicago
    what's the cost to de-arch leaf springs, as opposed to lowering blocks?
     
  9. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Feb 26, 2004
    Bloomington, MN
    If you use a torch... the cost is minimal. :screwup:
    (I'm kidding. :eek: )

    Removing the springs, paying someone to disassemble, de-arch and reassemble is going to cost you far more time and money than a $10 set of blocks. You will need longer "U" bolts so add that to the cost of lowering blocks.

    I think you will be fine with 1" blocks on our 2nd gens.
    (Or throw a full-size spare in the trunk and run with a full tank of gas as much as possible. ;) )
     

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