LS1 install progress

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by 1st and goal, Jan 27, 2007.

  1. 1st and goal

    1st and goal Veteran Member

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    Thanks, I looked at your album and your setup looks pretty good ;)

    What brand of headers did you use? It looks like you just had to modify the collector area.

    Was your car a factory A/C car? How much do you have into the A/C stuff?(PM me if you prefer) There were quite a few days last year when I would not drive the car as it was too hot out and I didn't like roasting my balls off so I was determined to get the A/C working when I did the LS1 swap.

    As my Z is going to use a 4L60E I don't think I'll get the 1700 rpm you're seeing but I'm optimistic that it'll be 2K ish. I was told my Z had 4:11's but I've never checked, I'm going to have my guy pull the cover and change the fuild and check the overall condition of the gears along with verifying exactly what gears I have.

    I'm jonesing to beat on the car but as I live in New Hampshire I'm kinda stuck with crappy roads right now so......
     
  2. 70.5CamaroRS

    70.5CamaroRS Member

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    Well it will be nice have the electronic version of that trans. I had a 700r4 before the current swap and that thing never shifted right.

    The headers I used are stepped 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 Edelbrock headers for a 2002 Camaro. As you said, I had to cut them where they reached the back of the engine and redirect them in order to fit between the frame rails. I think other people have done similar mods with cheaper 1 3/4 headers and probably had better success. I think the 1 7/8 are probably a little too big and don't fit as well. I had to notch my frame a little on the pass side to make them fit.

    For the A/C I used the interior kit from Classic Auto Air. It was $600. The car was originally equiped with A/C and the kit is made for cars that originally had heater only, but it fit non the less. The hard part was mounting it and cutting out the holes in the smoothed out firewall.

    I just took the car in today to get the tune done, so by tomorrow I should know how much HP the thing makes and finally lay into the throttle.
     
  3. 1st and goal

    1st and goal Veteran Member

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    Thanks for the info.

    Looking forward to seeing what kind of numbers you put out.
     
  4. 70.5CamaroRS

    70.5CamaroRS Member

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    Got it back today, see attached for results. Today is the first time I really revved it up past 4500RPM. Car runs great. My next project will figuring out how to get as much traction out of this thing as possible.

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2010
  5. 1st and goal

    1st and goal Veteran Member

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    Awesome ;)

    That is one mean flat torque curve ;)

    Give me some more details on your motor combo.

    Marc
     
  6. 70.5CamaroRS

    70.5CamaroRS Member

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    Stock LS1 bottom end., Crane 218/224 cam and matching valve springs. As far the heads, I'm not completely sure. The castings are 5.3L heads which was a bit of a surprise since I was expecting a stock LS1 pullout. There may or may not be any work done to them. The throttle body was polished a bit and it already had a 160 thermostat. For the exhaust I used flowmaster 2.5" kit with 50s muffler. I had to modify the layout a little since the crossover pipe interfered with my fabbed trans crossmember. As mentioned earlier I also have the LT headers.

    Positioning of the air filter is important also. It needs to be away from any air that passes through the radiator.

    I wasn't completely sure which cam to choose, but I decided that I probably don't want to have to have to rev the thing past 6k on the street, so that was the deciding factor.
     
  7. 1st and goal

    1st and goal Veteran Member

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    Looks like you got lucky, I was expecting 325-350 rwhp on my setup. That motor probably has a set of reworked 5.3 heads, good deal for you :D

    I put a comp cams cam # 54-428-11 in but we retarded it two degrees for more mid range

    Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-7,400 RPM
    Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
    Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
    Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228 int./230 exh.
    Advertised Intake Duration: 281
    Advertised Exhaust Duration: 283
    Advertised Duration: 281 int./283 exh.
    Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.571 in.
    Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.573 in.
    Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.571 int./0.573 exh. lift
    Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

    I hear you on the positioning of the air filter, mine is going in the drivers side area in front of the wheel well (where my old vac can used to go).

    Eventually I intend to put some long tube headers on it and most likely an LS6 intake but my first priority is to get it running and just have some fun.
     
  8. 70.5CamaroRS

    70.5CamaroRS Member

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    That should be a very healthy sounding cam. As far as getting the thing running, I couldn't agree more. Much more fun to do a project at a time and enjoy the upgrade. My project took 9 months to get the engine fired. Way too long when all you want to do is drive the car.

    Are you planning a dyno tune when the car is running? With that cam and a good tune, you should have no problem making plenty of power.

    My original intentions for the Air intake was also to use the driver side, but with the routing of the radiator hose, I couldn't find the room. That led to the battery relocation. Since your motor will be further back than mine, will that give the extra room you need?
     
  9. 1st and goal

    1st and goal Veteran Member

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    We are defintly going to tune it on the dyno ;)

    The shop that is doing the work has a mustang dyno and we will be putting it on the rollers asap (actually I have high hopes of tuning it on 2/24 but well see)......we are also going to test a truck intake to see if it makes any more torque.....what the hell, he has a spare truck intake and last time I checked I had the hood clearance.:)

    I intend to run mine at the track and I do not want a batter cut off switch on the rear so I need to keep the battery where it is.

    I haven't seen how much clearance there is with the radiator in the car but last time I talked to Buddy that was what we were planning to do.
     
  10. 70.5CamaroRS

    70.5CamaroRS Member

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    What are you planning for your rear suspension? I have some pretty bad wheel hop, which could be constributed to poly body bushings and subframe connectors. I played around with the drivshaft angle and little by shimming the trans and it seemed to help. I'm considering new springs and would rather not put traction bars on. Any info you could share about improving my situation would be appreciated.

    Chris
     

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