motor swap gone wrong

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Michaels, Aug 11, 2019.

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  1. carr911

    carr911 Veteran Member

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  2. Z-Life

    Z-Life New Member

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    Dang, man so sorry to hear about this. what to do, ya well you could pull this and rebuild it if the deck hasnt been shaved too much, or the cylinders overbored already. but you would need to buy new internals, maybe even a crankshaft, rings, bearings, seals, etc. and pay a machine shop to prepare then assemble it yourself. man I know if you knew going in to it it was going to cost 6k and still be a mess you would have considered something else. short of scrapping the whole thing and going with a LQ4 or 9 and a LS swap kit, I think I'd take my new heads and get a shortblock, assemble that and it would be the least cost going forward. See if you can trade in the old block, or better take it back and get a refund, or sell at swap meet as is 500.00 "has a noise".
     
  3. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You need to make a friend of someone local to you that has successfully built a small block Chevy.

    50+ years ago I was fortunate enough to have mentors who shared their knowledge with me.

    There is something seriously WRONG with the rotating assembly (crankshaft & rod bearings and/or priston to cylinder wall clearance) which means pulling the engine out and pulling the heads and oil pan to chech the bearings on the main caps and rods.

    If it were me, here's what I'd do: strip the block to a bare block. Send the block to a reputable machine shop to see IF the cylinder bores are good. ASSUMING that the block is useable (bores good or boreable) have the block THOROUGHLY cleaned (to get rid of any debris in the oil galleries), new cam bearings and frost plugs installed.

    Now that you have a good block, buy a balanced 383 stroker kit ( crank + rods & pistons & rings + main & rod bearings + harmonic balancer). That will give you a good short block.

    I am torn about saving that cam. IMHO, get a new cam and lifters. Remember, in cams, less is more! TOO much cam is not a good thing. IMHO , get a cam that makes power from 1500 to 6000 rpms (or less) = something that is streetable A flat tapped roller cam or just flat tappet.

    Thoroughly clean those heads and install them.
     
  4. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    It just occurred to me to ask: are you positive the lifters are adjusted correctly? They should be 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn from zero lash while the engine is running.

    There are posting (by me and other members) on how to adjust hydraulic lifters.
     
  5. ZRODDER

    ZRODDER Member

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    You have been given a lot of good advice here. My recommendation is a combination of several listed.

    1. Yes, get yourself a few do-it-yourself books and study up by tearing down your engine, and label/identify location/take photos/draw out bolt patterns, punch holes in cardboard and place removed bolts and hardware into the cardboard, and label and sandwich bag the rest. Sounds weird, but as stated above, I to started this way taking advice from individuals who made their living in the auto machine and mechanic industry in the late 70s in high school. Today I use much less cardboard and plastic bags, but I still use some:).

    2. Spend some time cleaning what you can, and inspect and document what you suspect. You can bounce your questions and findings off of whomever you find for step 3.

    3. Once you have gone through the learning curve of step 1, and you plan to continue with this type of work in the future, buy some inexpensive precision measuring (Mics and/or at least Dial Calipers) tools for starters. In conjunction, find yourself a reputable auto machinist in a local shop, and drive him/her crazy with questions. You will have to pay for the services, but they normally enjoy sharing their knowledge. At least I do when a person shows the interest in learning.

    4. If you are fortunate, and at times we are, you may find you can salvage your engine. Worst case, as stated before, crate motor it. But be carful there. I've had to go into some crate motors to correct issues by their builders. Several of these companies hire low labor help, and teach them to put the lime in the coconut over and over, plus you may get one assembled on a Friday payday:).

    Either way you go, consider all that was and will be provided here later to make an informed decision.

    Keep in mind, it can never be to clean, so Good Luck and Engine on my friend.
    Steve
     
  6. manicmechanic

    manicmechanic Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Sorry to hear about your issues, But since your already a bit deep into it I would start with the basics before you tear it down again. Do a compression test on all the cylinders to see where your at cylinder wise and determine if you have deeper issues or can still work with the current short block. Then if you have to pull it apart, identify what you have internally as far as piston size (+size or stock bore) and Crank journals if they are + sizes or not. Then you can go from there.
     
  7. Michaels

    Michaels New Member

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    thank you thank you for all your replies. i went to see my mechanic yesterday and he assured me that he can get it running properly. i was glad the car was on a lift and not out in the back. he has 20 hours on it that he cant charge me for. i been researching motor swaps and rebuilding over the weekend and you guys are right. i should of did this myself.
    im a plumber by trade and customized bikes since i was a kid. i guess i thought if i pay someone to do it quick the wife wouldn't really know whats going on....... she does now....
    thanks again guys i will keep ya posted what happens shortly

    Mike
     
  8. Michaels

    Michaels New Member

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    yes flat tappet. im told the cam break in went well
     
  9. Michaels

    Michaels New Member

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  10. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    Did you bid on ebay? That would be sweet if you got it for 7.00.
     

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