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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Blu-By-U 79Z, Feb 13, 2009.
I got them temporary mounted on the bumper for a mock up fit lol
Made a 5 hour round trip to pick up a stock Z hood last weekend. Paid $150 for it. It was primer but looked and fit decent. I spent a few hours degreasing the bottom and then started sanding the top... then i got a surpise.
I found bondo...
This was bad enough until I took a peek under the bondo...
Under all of those patches of bondo are rust holes that were dented in by a hammer and filled up with filler... Im getting so frustrated with finding a good stock hood that Im starting to see a cowl hood in my future again...
Put some POR15 on tht hood Matt!
Seriously that poo should be called POOR15! I'm not a fan of that stuff at all. Rustmort or Zero Rust and then epoxy prime and paint.
You're movin' on 'er Matt. Don't forget to stop and look at the raod behind you once in a while.
've been doing the paint prep sanding ans seal coat for at least 2 months now maybe more than that. It just seems to go on forever. BUT I did get the roof done today, just my new c2" cowl hood to do.
Then start on the high build and do it all over again.
Keep on keepin on Matt.
You know in fairness to POR products I have to say they are not designed or intended for use on NON rusted surfaces "read clean metal". POR products are designed to activate with iron oxide (rust) and in that field they do perform.
Unfortunately for many of us that use POR products, myself included, we tend to slather POR on everything in one go. They, the POR people, recommend not cleaning rusted areas down to clean metal before application.
Probably, I'm only surmising here, the areas you have rust coming through on were not the rusted areas but the clean areas around the rust. POR15 will not self etch to clean metal but it will create a very tough top coat which over time will trap moisture behind the barrier and introduce rust.
So there, that's my 2cw and the extent to which my scientific research has led me to this conclusion.
I feel your pain. I took time off work and have been doing body work on mine this week and am finding the same sort of things. Instead of pulling dents they left them, drilled holes in the body, presumably to hold the bondo, and then covered it up. Mine is not the super clean example it was advertised as...grrrrr.
So i know where to measure for a holley carb. However, where are the vent tubes on an eddy carb? I have an air cleaner that matches my valve covers that I am trying to fit under the stock hood. With a 1.25" drop base and 3" filter I am just touching the hood. Id like 3/4-1" more clearance. I have considered running a 2" tall filter. With the added space of the lid I figure a 2" filter should be fine. Motors a 355ci. In the pictures I put the tape where I believe the vent tubes would be on an eddy carb.
From this point I have 1 3/8" to the straight edge.
The lid gives an additional 3/4" clearance.
Together that should give me around 2.1" of clearance. A 1" shorter filter should give me right under 1.2" of clearance. That is if my measurement on the carb is correct.
Here is the air cleaner in question.
In your first pic the end of the tape measure is touching the bowl vent. Those carbs have a bowl on the left and right...unlike a Holley.
I have the same problem with my 650 holley and Edelbrock air cleaner. I had to put another one on becuase with the Edelbrock flat top air cleaner It hits the carb tubes. I also have to run a 2" air filter with my stock hood to get anything to clear. Doesn't leave for much air flow. The hood insulation also put rub marks on my lid too. I'm highly considering a 2" AMD cowl hood.
Thanks guys for the info.
Its been WAY too long since I last updated... Ive since redone the one hood hinge. Got them both cleaned up and painted. They still rubbed some of the paint off but they are very tight right now. Ive been trying to figure out the best lube for the hinges. Im considering graphite but Ive never used it before. I spent most of the afternoon working on finishing up the minor blemishes on the urethane parts. Its slowly coming together. Honestly nothing really picture worthy at the moment but I hope that with all of this tedious work Ive been putting in that the parts look great once they are done.