No Start

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by bkmont, Oct 23, 2019.

  1. bkmont

    bkmont Veteran Member

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    Well, i think I might have found the No Start problem. It looks like it was in the wiring. The 20awg to the R terminal had a butt splice under the tape. Upon inspection it looked like it was hanging together by a couple of strands. I cut it back, cleaned it up, put a new splice in and then put some heat shrink around the wires from the solenoid terminal back about 12 inches. The original heat shield tube was very brittle and breaking on the starter end. I flipped it around to use the top side which was in better condition.
    I guess time will will tell if the No Start issue goes away.

    It looks like a future project will be to replace the engine harness one day.
     
    dave@ztech likes this.
  2. Vettenick

    Vettenick Vettenick

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    Not sure if you found that no crank problem. That "R" terminal is a bypass to allow a full 12 volts to the coil when starting.
    If this was the problem, you'd still have cranking, and even it could start and run with the lower voltage. If that terminal was bad, you might want to check that "S" terminal wiring also. Just my 2 cents.
     
  3. bkmont

    bkmont Veteran Member

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    The S terminal wiring looked okay to me. I put some shrink tube around it too to further protect the insulation. I tighten all the wiring up on the solenoid terminals too. The battery wire terminal seemed to be loose so now I know it's tight.

    Just got back from a 1 hour drive without any issues. It started right up after I pulled back in the garage and shut it down.

    I have an extra heavy duty solenoid in my parts stash but I decided not to put it on after I repaired the wire.

    I'll report back if the No Start happens again.
     
  4. Vettenick

    Vettenick Vettenick

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    Hope that solves your problem. Enjoy!
     

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