r&p gear install: How difficult is it really?

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by Goat, Aug 17, 2019.

  1. Kuz

    Kuz New Member

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    Goat, in addition to all the other good advice here, I found it handy for setting the pinion depth to save the old pinion bearings after you remove them, and grind out their ID a bit with an air grinder so they're a slip fit on the new pinion. Then you can easily slip them on and off by hand until you find the right shim combination to give the correct pinion depth. Once this is set you can press the new bearings onto the pinion knowing you've got the right shims.
     
  2. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    Many times people have found this to be untrue. Bearings, especially used bearings, are not always the same thickness and many times you will have to make another shim change after installing the bearing that will be used in the rear end.
     
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  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    I was lucky, I used a bearing with a honed ID, but it was a new bearing and the same brand, it made my final set-up exactly how it was with the set-up bearing. If anything it will get you close. Ie only having to pull the bearing off a couple times versus multiple.
     
  4. Jeep43

    Jeep43 Veteran Member

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    I've honed out the new bearing that I ultimately used so its a light press where I could remove it with a puller on the cage. Its not going anywhere especially on a rear that uses a crush sleeve. Now that I mentioned crush sleeve, I always use a crush sleeve eliminator to get pinion preload with shims.

    Don't use too much marking compound, thin it with a little gear oil to get a thin film of it only and check pattern by preloading the gears. I like to put a breaker bar on a ring bolt and try to manually hold the yoke while I turn the ring back and forth. Check it multiple places. You want a nice contact patch that fades away in all directions, no sharp cutoff (thick compound could trick you here) on both sides of the tooth. The hardest part is figuring out what to change to improve the pattern. Many books have conflicting info.

    Lastly, start with a known good rear and use its pinion shim pack to start. Many times you will be right on.
     
  5. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    ^ That's exactly why I haven't attempted this project. (Yet.)

    I've never done it before and I don't have a properly set up rear to start with. :(

    The rear end in mine has whined on acceleration and deceleration since I bought it.
    I paid someone to set up a new carrier (Eaton posi) with 3.42 gears and it was still noisy.

    I can almost guarantee the guy just tossed in the new components and used the old shim pack.
    (He probably stashed the installation kit I provided into his toolbox too.)

    I took it back and he supposedly spent another day working on it... Same noise.
    The place was out of business a couple of weeks later so I was never able to get the work done properly. :mad:

    After driving it this long (ten years), I'll need to start all over with new gears and another installation kit.

    BGH.... In recent years, who is selling the best gears and install kits?
    (I got the package from you but it was Tom's Differentials who supplied the gears. I've heard he's no longer with us.)
     
  6. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Mayor of Simpleton Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I think you would kill this Terry. I'm not BGH but in my opinion AAM gears are the only way to go. It seems like all the others end up with "some noise" and the tech support I got from AAM was outstanding. I've got a link at home for a guy with outstanding prices on AAM gears that competes with the aftermarket stuff. I'll edit this when I get home with a link. Like mentioned in some of the posts above the Super Shim kits are the shiznit. Way easier to use and damn cheap for what you get IMO.

    I'm in the business and like you I got had on having my diff work done and ended up doing it right myself a year later. Not a lot of mechanics like Freddie out there with what it takes to do it right. Pains me to say that but I think it's a fact.
     
  7. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    AAM is the best that I know of. US Gear is also good, but limited in applications. I don't know if Dewco is still in business or not, but they had the best installation kits. They supplied Tom's and DTS and others with kits. They had the original Super Shim set. Yukon copied the shim set, but not quite as good as the original. The Yukon kit is probably the best now assuming the Dewco kits are no longer available. USA Standard is a pretty good kit,but has the cheaper Koyo bearings. Just don't use a Ratech kit.

    As for the pinion shim, if you don't know what it had in it originally then start with about .032 and work from there. Be sure that the pinion bearing preload is set correctly every time you do a pattern check and use an axle to turn everything when checking the pattern. This will give a more clear pattern that is easier to read. If the pinion bearing preload is set correctly then it will have plenty of resistance when turning it with an axle. Turn it at least 6 full turns in both directions.
     
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  8. Dave Nelson

    Dave Nelson Veteran Member

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    I used US Gear and was very satisfied with them, nice and quiet.
     
  9. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Mayor of Simpleton Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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  10. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    I haven’t experienced any gear noise with 8.5s when set-up properly. A 9” is a different beast, but luckily US gear is coming out with a Stealth Series that’s specifically made to be a quite gear. I’m using US Gear with the isotropic finish.

    As for the pinion bearing...is it going anywhere? No, but if it’s loose on the pinion, you risk the body spinning on the pinion shaft and will cause damage. It’s a press fit for a reason...
     

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