Rebuild plan on Numbers match block? 1970 Z28 LT1

Discussion in 'Original Drivetrain Topic' started by 1970_Z28_503, Oct 7, 2019.

  1. gpm6367

    gpm6367 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I like mine sounding like they should and that means compression and a solid grind. That’s just me. My engine guy recommended I drop compression and go roller but I like the solid lifter symphony.

    I mix VP with pump super just to be sure no pinging. Great sound and smell!
     
  2. rotinrob

    rotinrob Member

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    Nice thing about engine internals is that no one can see them. So no one will know that that isn't a GM crank and rods sling around inside the engine. Don't mess with 50 year old highly stressed parts. No need to mess with NOS parts and prices when they can't be seen. Buy quality aftermarket rods and a crank. Plenty of cam companies make retro cams for the LT1. When I rebuilt my L78 with GM crank and rods I was lucky enough to find right priced L88 parts no one can see them so they are stock right? Anyway I like the true experience so it does have the solid lifter BB street cam and 11:1 CR I run Sonoco race gas that I can buy at the corner Sonoco or many Speedway stations. I mix it 50-50 with premium and let er rip. Built the LS7 style 454 in my SS 454 Monte the same way.
     
  3. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Did the machine shop sonic check the block and provide the spec sheet? Would be unfortunate to put money into it only to find out it's to thin afterwards.

    You may be ahead buying a complete balanced rotating assembly with a nice forged crank/rods & flat top pistons to get your compression down and work with a reputable cam company to spec you a nice solid cam w/EDM lifters that compliments your compression drop.

    Proper machine work & planning with some light bowl cleanup with a quality valve/valve job and you will hit the original HP figures and then some, and sound great to boot with the solid lifters.
     

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