Rebuilt 350 Issues

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by Rustbucket350, Oct 24, 2015.

  1. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    I recently rebuilt my 350 and it just doesn't want to run. I had the block machined, rotating assembly balanced, and bearing clearances checked by the machine shop. It has Speed Pro flat tops, a 300 duration cam (232 @ .050)/.488 cam with 1.6 rockers, Jegs 180cc aluminum heads, a Pro Comp single plane, and a 750 Quick Fuel Slayer with a 140 gph electric pump set at 6 psi. I tried installing the distributor 10 degrees advanced on the tab which resulted in a 4000 rpm idle and then reinstalled it at 0 which tamed it down a bit. Now... it will run but only if I keep my foot in it and once it hits 2000 rpms it'll die. I tried more advance, less advance, and I hit a sweet spot where it wants to start right off the bat but it won't unless I give it gas.

    The engine sounds healthy when its running but its very difficult to get a timing light on it when it won't hold an idle. It'll run ok with the choke closed but once its warmed up I can't get it to run on its own for the life of me.

    What should I check? I know the basics like timing, carb tuning, and fuel pressure, but now I'm getting irritated. I really don't know if its a timing issue or a fuel issue. I pulled the plugs and they're a little black but it also smelled fairly rich from the few minutes it ran. I'm fairly new to holley style carb tuning but it seems like all carbs are pretty much the same.
     
  2. hhott71

    hhott71 R.I.P 11/19/18 Lifetime Gold Member

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    Check for a vacuum leak
    Check for clogged idle air bleeds
     
  3. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Vacuum leak ???
     
  4. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    As far as vacuum lines go I have the distributor running to the timed spark port at the base of the carb. The other timed port is plugged. My transmission line is attached to the full vacuum on the carb and the pcv to the back. The only one I'm doubting is the power brake vacuum because the single planes don't have a port and my carb only has one large one so I drilled and tapped an 1/8 npt fitting in the back of the plenum between the runners. I'm not positive it will provide enough vacuum for power brakes but it doesn't leak. A vacuum leak did cross my mind though so I think checking the carb gaskets (I have 3 since it has a nitrous plate) and intake china walls are definitely on my list.
     
  5. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    Forgive my ignorance here but where are the idle bleeds on a quick fuel?
     
  6. JONESYFXR

    JONESYFXR Veteran Member

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    Who built the engine? I've seen intake gaskets slip during installation and cause a vacuum leak from the crankcase.
     
  7. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    I built it myself which is why I'm getting irritated lol. I used red rtv on the china walls in place of the rubber gaskets. The motor used to have an edelbrock carb on it that I was more familiar with when it was milder. The only thing I'm reusing is the distributor and it occurred to me as I typed this that it could be bad.
     
  8. boogie

    boogie Veteran Member

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    Valve adjustment?
     
  9. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    How tight do you guys tighten the rockers on a hydraulic lifter? I believe I went a half turn past the point where the pushrod didn't have vertical play.
     
  10. boogie

    boogie Veteran Member

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    Half turn past zero lash is the norm.
     

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