Rebuilt 350 Issues

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by Rustbucket350, Oct 24, 2015.

  1. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    The fast idle definitely works and after I reset the timing its a bit high at about 2000-2500 but once the choke is open it quits.
     
  2. JONESYFXR

    JONESYFXR Veteran Member

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    Try this.

    With the engine running, plug your PCV hose with something. Then, remove your other valve cover breather. Place your hand over the opening, creating a good seal. Rev the engine, and if your hand feels suction you have a slipped intake gasket.

    I've seen this more than once. It's a hard thing to track down. I glue the intake gaskets out the intake before I install the intake, to alleviate any future issues. It may be overkill, but it prevents future headaches.

    Good luck!
     
  3. Dogwater

    Dogwater Veteran Member

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    I glue my intake gaskets on also. You have a vacuum leak somewhere. Might try shooting propane with a 3/8 rubber tube. Around the Carb base, point the rubber tube at where the intake gasket mates with the heads, china walls.
     
  4. krabben1

    krabben1 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Review from the balncer on summit.
    Broke

    Summit RacingSummit Racing Verified Purchase
    Came apart at the dragstrip. Never turned more than 6000 rpm. The elastomer came apart and the outside weight came off

    1 of 1 found this review helpful.
     
  5. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    I'll give the breather and propane tests a shot when I can fiddle with it again. I've had those gaskets slip before too so that's a possibility. The exhaust will be here soon so my neighbors will be happier and I can run through the vacuum tests. With the distributor advance plugged I should be able to check the initial timing even at a fast idle right?

    Speaking of not having exhaust on the car, I've read that open headers lean out the air/fuel ratio considerably. Would that be enough to cause it to shut off at an idle? The carb is still set up exactly as it came out of the box. After looking at my buddy's car this weekend at the track I realized I need to tighten my throttle springs and cable up as well.

    When I pulled the balancer off to replace the seal I took a good look at it and it looks perfectly fine so I don't think that's a problem.

    I know its hard to diagnose my car from a forum when I have a million questions and ideas but I appreciate the advice guys. A guy I know bought a 71 Roadrunner over the weekend that sat for 15 years and I had that running in 5 minutes. Made me a bit jealous.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2015
  6. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    With the engine not wanting to idle below 2K rpm, I doubt you'll be able to set initial timing because the centrifugal (weights) will be advancing timing at that point. If the engine revs up to 4K rpm, you could check total timing which should be around 34 - 36*. That's how I set my timing anyway, just let the initial fall where ever it may.

    And the unlit propane torch is a good vacuum leak detector.
     
  7. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    I could check the total timing. That slipped my mind. I'm questioning my old brake booster at this point too so I'm eager to get these vacuum ports plugged.
     
  8. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Just plug off all external vacuum users; tranny, brakes, pcv, advance, hvac, etc, and use the propane around the manifold.
     
  9. Enigma

    Enigma Member

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    You set the zero mark on the balancer to the zero mark on the timing tab, and pointed the rotor at the number one plug wire?
     
  10. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    Yeah thats how its set now but with a few degrees of advance on the distributor so it wouldn't backfire.
     

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