Seam Sealer & SPI Epoxy Primer

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by evilWS6, Oct 29, 2019.

  1. evilWS6

    evilWS6 Veteran Member

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    Hey everyone!

    Got my whole front end stripped and getting ready to wire wheel the cowl and firewall area, and I have a few questions. I'll be painting everything with just SPI epoxy primer for the satin black look and durability of the epoxy.

    1. Should I completely remove all of the existing seam sealer, and replace with fresh sealer?

    2. SPI epoxy directly to metal, or spray etching primer first?

    3. When (in the painting process) do I apply the fresh sealer?

    4. Lastly, can anyone recommend a sealer?

    Thank you!
     
  2. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    From SPI: NEVER use SPI Epoxy over a Soda Blasted vehicle unless you call us first for proper neutralizing instructions.NEVER use SPI Epoxy over Acid Etch/Wash Primers or Rust Converters. It will not work and we strongly suggest if you want to use a rust converter that you use the rust converters paint system instead of SPI.Acid treatments should not be used unless you know the proper way to neutralize them, again call us first to be safe. Acid films can cause an adhesion loss.We only recommend using Ospho’s acid treatment if you even need one.If not handled properly these issues can destroy a paint job and will result in an expensive mistake.For bare metal or aluminum do NOT use any other cleaner except 700-1for cleaning.

    Full Tech sheet for SPI products: https://9beb57d8-8d44-4ec2-99ae-f7f...d/8ced3e_f630902f33194e3497725e0201077ac7.pdf Information in the tech sheet about using epoxy primers thinned 5-50% with uretahne reducer in the tech sheet also.
     
  3. l16pilot

    l16pilot Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    SPI's epoxy is a very good DTM, (direct to metal), and is very user friendly. I am sure you'll get lot's of responses on seamsealer brands...personally, I used the Eastwood beige and black to replicate the factory seam sealer and it worked very well. I would suggest if you remove the old seamsealer, apply the SPI epoxy first...then apply the seamsealer.
     
  4. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    I am using SPI epoxy, and I blasted entire car. I called SPI , verified the media and rust inhibitor are compatible. They are very willing to discuss with you, find out the exact media, and rust chemicals and how they affect the SPI product.

    I used dustless blasting, with water based rust inhibitor. They recommended I hit the freshly blasted surface with 80 grit, blow off, then use wax and grease remover, then let sit 30 minutes, then spray 1:1 mix epoxy. if you using Epoxy as final coat, your mix might be slightly different
     

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