So I opened a cam of worms, now I'm nervous!!!

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by QUAKE_WARS, Jul 20, 2009.

  1. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Also, is the rod for the pedal supposed to be fully extended
    at the mounting point of the pedal arm????
     
  2. jakeshoe

    jakeshoe Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    It should be nearly fully extended and it needs to be straighter than that to prevent binding.
     
  3. Todd80Z28

    Todd80Z28 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'm having trouble following this. What do you mean exactly?

    Also, don't move the connection point down on the clutch pedal. You'll end up with a VERY heavy pedal, and way too much travel- it'll make the fork contact the pressure plate.

    EDIT- I think I threw this up before, but here's mine for reference. I don't have that bracket- just bolted to the firewall at a slight angle.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2009
  4. Todd80Z28

    Todd80Z28 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    It looks like if you reduce the bend angle on that plate( actually increase I guess- make it more obtuse, more vertical, etc), that it will pivot the master cylinder a bit more vertical, like it appears it needs to be. In that first pic, it looks like the clutch pedal is all the way up with that connected?
     
  5. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Yes, the clutch pedal is all the way up. The rod from the Clutch M/C fits exactly
    up to the hole up top on the pedal arm. No way on earth will the clutch pedal move. I was going to disconnect the other end on the trans where it bolts up
    to the clutch fork and see if the pedal would move then. I figure the ats bracket
    already had the correct angle it needed.. I also dont have any fluid in the little reservoir for the clutch, but i dont think that has anything to do with being able to depress the clutch. I may be wrong. So the master cylinder needs to be almost straight up and down like yours to get movement???

    And if your talking about making that bracket a little more flatter so the rod can stay higher I can do that to.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2009
  6. Dangerous Drew

    Dangerous Drew Veteran Member

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  7. Todd80Z28

    Todd80Z28 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You have to put fluid in the reservoir for the system to work. I can't say for sure what's locking it up, and I don't recall having that problem. I do recall something about the slave pushrod has to be all the way in when mounting, else "something" happens. I don't remember what, though.:screwup:

    Member "earlysecond" just did this swap, too. PM him and see if he has any input on the locked up master.

    And yes, I'm talking about flattening the bracket slightly, as you'll want the rod going into the cylinder a bit straighter than it currently appears to be. Once you get it working, the rod should stroke about 15/16-1" for good clutch engagement.
     
  8. earlysecond

    earlysecond Veteran Member

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    Quake,

    Got your PM some things to check. First of, yeah the pedal and the MC could be binding but THAT is NOT your problem in my opinion.

    Do you have somebody to help you, take the MC resivour cap off completley and put fluid in the "tank" Take the slave cylinder loose from the tranny bell, allow the slave piston to come the whole way out. Take the palm of your hand and push the slave rod in about an inch and let it come back out, repeat the process because you are actually bleeding the system now, of course make sure that the fluid from the tank does not spray everywhere NOR run OUT.

    Once you have done that, depress the rod the whole way, put the lid back on the resiviour. Have a helper get into the car and GENTLY and slowly depress the attached pedal and MC cylinder while you HOLD PRESSURE on the slave rod (the part that presses on the fork) as your helper depresses the pedal you should feel the rod push your hand away. IF you do not there is a fault in the system, usually NOT air.

    I REALLY, personally THINK that your problem was the same as mine. The first 2 times I thought that I had my fork locked into the detent which holds it in the correct position, I was wrong, it was not and kept slipping "out" (down and away towards the outside of the bellhousing) When the fork is in this incorrect position it cannot either move at the throw out end OR the actuator end. When the fork is properly positioned on the throw out AND snapped into the detent, it will have little play. Neither tapping or gently pulling it "out" will dislodge it. If it is mounted properly, it is difficult to get out.

    I would check the fork FIRST and the hydraulics second. I am betting that your fork is not in the correct position. Mine finally got right. Personally I feared that it would slide out, leaving me stranded. It is simple to fix IF the car is jacked up!

    Start there. I blamed my hydraulics for a host of problems that were and still are other issues.

    Yeah, your pedal MAY be an issue BUT, unless it is REALLY bound up, then it will not stop the system from operating, the system by the way is pretty simple and fool proof, which works for me.

    Finally, if you do have a hydraulic problem you can get a new master slave set up on E-bay. Again, rule out everything else FIRST.

    My opinion based on my own experiences. . .hope it helps.
    Brent
     
  9. woody80z28

    woody80z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    If your pedal is very hard that means the slave piston is fully extended and if you push harder it will blow.

    I think earlysecond is right and your fork is not in correctly... meaning the slave rod is contacting it and pushing the slave piston back. When you install the slave on the bellhousing you should have to fight against the slave piston and go back and forth from bolt to bolt to tighten it down evenly.

    If it went on really easy without drawing it on with the nuts I'd bet that slave rod is not in the fork cup where it should be, or the rod is in the fork cup but the fork is not on the trans correctly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2009
  10. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Ok. I cant post pic's yet cause of computer problems. Will post real soon.

    What help me out to understand this issue the most was this thread!!
    http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155518&page=2

    First off I had no brake fluid in the reservoir:confused:
    Second, after reading LT1 WS6 thread, my bracket sat at 18 degree's:eek:
    The (ATS) bracket. Pics later. After pulling it out like 6 freaking time I got
    11 degree's out of it. Now my slave cylinder sit in a perfect angle and fits
    in the original 4 speed hole on the clutch pedal bracket. :) . I dont have a hard
    pedal nor a easy pedal. It feels just right for a used setup.

    Todd80Z28 you were RIGHT!!! After paying more attention to what I was doing. The real driveshaft length is 46 inches.. Not 45.5

    Everything seems to be working perfect for the moment. I still need to start the car.
    I need to fill up the trans with trans fluid and put the whole column back in.

    I cannot do anything till master power brakes send me my adjustable brake rod. I want
    my pedals even.

    I'll post pics as soon as I can. The ATS bracket sits almost flat to the firewall LOL.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2009

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