spoungy brakes

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by newschool72, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. purpleflame

    purpleflame Veteran Member

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    do you have a proportioning valve?
     
  2. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Yea. the prop valve is the one the brake company said was right for my set-up.
     
  3. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Im not loosing any fluid that i can see and the master stays full.
     
  4. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? As odd as it sounds, the directions that came with your new master cylinder should have said to bench bleed it.
     
  5. frankz

    frankz Veteran Member

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    1/8" lines ?? The lines should be 3/16"
     
  6. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Do you think the 1/8" line could be my problem. It runs from a tee in the back to the braided steel lines at the caliper. It is not built like the factory set-up. Instead of the rubber line that runs from the main front to back brake line to the rearend, I built this one with a tee mounted above the driveshaft tunnel with a 1/8" line coming out both sides to bradied steel lines to the calipers. the 1/8" lines are run against the body with clamps and the braided line is the flex point for the rear to articulate. I built the system this way because i wanted the braided line for a firmer peddle and was having a heck of a time getting the line that goes from the main line to the rearend mount made of braided steel.
     
  7. frankz

    frankz Veteran Member

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    Single piston and multi piston calipers have different volume requirements.Master cyl.size and line size should work in unison. Either way 1/8" is too small.
     
  8. purpleflame

    purpleflame Veteran Member

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    have you talked to the people you bought the brakes from usually they can tell you if all the components are compatible with each other, the 1/8 inch lines might just be the prob. as far as the master goes if it was leaking past the seals internally you would never know other than the feel of a spongy pedal.
     
  9. DEIVIONCRX

    DEIVIONCRX New Member

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    I came up with this problem in my 80 T/A. New 1-1/8" master cylinder, new hard lines, stainless flex lines, rebuilt calipers front and rear, bench bled master cylinder twice, bled 3 small bottles of fluid through each wheel, pedal moves about 3" of travel then gets hard as a rock, car stops on a dime after the 3" of movement. Still haven't figured it out. I got the car with the rear brake lines capped and the pedal only moved maybe 1/2" and got firm, i hooked up the rear calipers and that's when i started having the travel problem.

    I'm betting on my problem being the portioning valve stuck since it had been bypassing the rear for who knows how many years before i got my car 7 months ago. But the only non new parts in my system are the Booster and Proportion valve.
     
  10. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    I think i will pull the tee and a line and see if i can come up with some 3/16" line that will work . Its worth a shot and shouldnt be too expensive to try.
    As far as the company that i bought them from, Ive been back and forth with them over other (BIG) issues and i really dont have much faith in them. How much faith would you have in a brake company that didnt know first gen and second gen camaro's have different spindles, and that sold me a kit that caused me to have to send my spindles to them to be machined down to work?And sent me 5 on 5" rear rotors for the rear brakes? Im sorry , i didnt mean to rant and rave about how big a pain in the butt this brake system has been. Thanks for all your input guys. I will let you all know how the bigger brake lines work out.
     

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