tip of the day for kick panel removal....

Discussion in 'Tips 'n' Tricks Topic' started by Mathes79Z, Sep 12, 2001.

  1. Joe H

    Joe H Member

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    Another old post that helped me out. You guys are great. Thanks
     
  2. masparks

    masparks Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'm getting ready to do this this afternoon!! Thanks alot!!!

    Took interrior out this morning. CAMARO IS IN REHAB!!!!
     
  3. 5spd540

    5spd540 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I need to remove them from my car but I know they are a pain in the a-- to remove.
     
  4. 1971BB427

    1971BB427 Veteran Member

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    Just changed the heater core in my '71 and I decided it was time to improve Chevy's design! I pulled all the nuts off the air box, then pulled the box out enough to get it away from the firewall. At this point I used my Sawzall to cut the box in half top to bottom. This allows the heater core clips to be removed without pulling the inner fender, or fan motor half.
    Once the clips are removed from the firewall side, I can pull the internal air box and drop the old core, install the new core, and then go back under the hood and reinstall the clips.
    Before reinstalling the right half of the modified box I welded a 1" wide strip of sheetmetal on it to overlap the left side, and put foam gasket on the strip that overlaps. Then reinstalled the right side and replaced the nuts to hold it.
    Just replaced my heater core again last weekend, and it was a breeze compared to the first time! It's not stock anymore, but it's a heck of a lot better!
     
  5. 5spd540

    5spd540 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Do you have any pics of what you did to improve it.
     
  6. 1971BB427

    1971BB427 Veteran Member

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    This is an old picture from before the restoration, but if you look at the heater box you can see next to the passenger side hood hinge the overlapping metal seam on the heater box. I don't have a closeup, but maybe I can get one soon.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. JD Z

    JD Z Veteran Member

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    An old post, but a life saver today. Drivers side is out. A non-ac car and the directions are perfect.
     
  8. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    What size are the nuts holding the E-brake studs at the firewall... 1/2" or 7/16"?

    I remember you didn't need a deep socket to remove them but they are gonna cost you some time if you drop the nuts (or the socket... and the extension) into the space between the fender and inner fender.
     
    dave@ztech likes this.
  9. JD Z

    JD Z Veteran Member

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    Twisted, 1/2”. No deep socket needed. In my case I purposely kept the nuts in the socket to bring them back up. I pray success putting it back together.

    I had a hard time finding the bolts. They are to the right of the brake booster. You can get your hand in barely to the right of the brake booster.
     
  10. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks!

    I had a kick panel leak a couple of years ago and did this job then. (But didn't remember the socket size I used.)
    I noticed a puddle on the driver's side when I washed the car a couple of weeks ago and realized I would probably have to pull that panel off in the near future. :(
     
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