Welding door gaps

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by woody80z28, Oct 4, 2015.

  1. woody80z28

    woody80z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    So the new Goodmark skins are terrible...and there are some gaps to weld. Got one done, but here's my question:

    What is the best way to finish the seam where the skin is folded over?

    Welding melted the seam sealer that was in there. Now I can dig out what was sealed on the visible part of the seam on the interior part of the door, but what about the sealer that was between the door shell and the skin? Just try to seal it from inside the door guts? Makes me kinda sad because it all looked beautiful with fresh epoxy and sealer...haha

    What have you done?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    pretty sure they only applied sealer/caulking to the outside of the join but could be wrong.

    Anyway if it was me I'd squirt some cavity wax or fisholene in there and every other crevice once paint is done.
     
  3. bodymanbill

    bodymanbill Veteran Member

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    I second the cavity wax i use it on all the panels i replace. this is the stuff i use[​IMG]
     
  4. 76_TypeLT

    76_TypeLT Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I taped both edges and made a "channel" to apply the seam sealer. After applying it with a caulking gun or acid brush, dip your finger in some lacquer thinner and smooth it out for a really nice smooth finish.
     
  5. earlysecond

    earlysecond Veteran Member

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    Hey Woody,
    I did what you did by building weld. After the fact, which i would have used 1/8" rod instead. Less heat, easier to shape.

    You'll be fine if you reseal the visible stuff on the outside. Do what Aaron said for process and it will turn out fine.

    Brent
     
  6. woody80z28

    woody80z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Yeah, I saw the 1/8" rod trick in Car Craft like 2 days after I got it done.

    The visible stuff is easy, that's not a problem. I'm not sure if I'd rather do cavity wax or a bead of sealer on the inside part. I was already planning on doing some sealer at the bottom edge of the door on the inside. Maybe it would be good to just continue it up the door edge. I'm sure I can't spray the cavity wax and seal it up...
     
  7. Z28zz383

    Z28zz383 Veteran Member

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    My original factory doors have a gap problem in the same area as where you added metal. Plan on fixing them next paint job.
     
  8. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    seam sealer on the outside using the technique Aaron described, cavity wax or fisholene on the inside.

    The good thing about cavity wax type products is they don't require the kind of prep that paint and sealer products do and they're designed to creep into all the places you can't get to.

    Just blast/vaccuum out any dust and crud you can, check all your drainage holes are clear and apply liberally (after paint of course) It'll drip out for a day after but can be wiped off easily without damaging anything. Should be considered a necessary step of any paint job and a good idea for anyone trying to preserve and old car.
     
  9. Dogwater

    Dogwater Veteran Member

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    I don't have one either but this is a job for a Tig. The 1/8 rod an a Tig would of been perfect. So once you grind that smooth what are you going to use as a filler for all of those small pits? Lead? JB Weld? Both of these work real well if you can keep it from running out of the pits.
    One thing I used instade of seam sealer was Loctite Polyseamseal ( clear) Yes its the stuff you would use on bath room tile. It is an adhesive. Its paintable once it been on for a few hours. Its flexable. Its a hell of a lot easier to apply than seam sealer. I've had it on my Camaro for a few years now, has not failed. Comes in a squeez tube, bought it at Lowes.
     
  10. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    Same stuff I use. Works great. It's runny enough to get in all the crevasses then turns to wax.
     

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