Recent content by pomartin

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    Vacuum advance maxed out at idle?

    You are right, I made a mistake there. Usually HEI have about 20 VA advance, meaning full idle timing would ve about 35 degrees... so 35-40 would be a better statement. I have 41° at idle myself (22 initial and 19 VA)
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    Vacuum advance in boosted application

    Reporting back after few thousands of miles.... averaging at 17.1 MPG with configuration below: 21° initial, 11°mechanical all-in by 2800, 19° VA positive stop, 2.5 primary PV, 73 primary jet, 80 secondary jet, 0.3mm wire in primary IFRs, 0.3mm wire in secindary IFRs, black VS spring and meth...
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    Vacuum advance maxed out at idle?

    Full VA at idle is the only logical setup, so you are on right way :) It will allow you to lean out the idle mixture and increase efficiency at low piston speed. Mixture that is not mixed good (low rpm) burns slowly, meaning it takes more time to burn. Activated VA at idle means you ignite this...
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    POOR! Customer Service

    During restoration of my 80' Camaro I have made 48 purcashes from RA (just counted the fridge magnets). Never had a problem. Once I wanted to return a set of braking calipers due to some specific breaking pads not fitting right- I got a response that it is not worth to send it back (I am from...
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    Idle mixture vs engine temp

    I do not have choke and have to play with the peddal.. My AFR right after startup is about 20:1 and engine stalls if not played with pedal (acceleration pump drops fuel in). A minute after engine running idle AFR is about 13:1 and when fully hot my idle AFR is 12.5:1 (and cruise afr 15-16:1 and...
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    Oil pan removal

    In addition to what biker said, when removing the pan with engine in car it helps a lot to rotate crank to right position, so crank weights clear the pan. I always forget what position this is, so I always peek inside till I find the right one :P
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    Eagle SIR connecting rod bolts stuck from factory

    few years back I had the same problem with rotating assembly of my tractor... At the end I drilled a hole through bolt (have a machine shop do this for you if you do not have right equipment) which allowed it to give in into itself and let go. Do not force it, it is better to throw away bolts...
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    another 2pc RMS diagnostics

    Reporting back after 2200 miles since oil pump change... RMS is dry. Now I can conclude with confidence the leak was caused by high volume high pressure oil pump (for those who did not follow my RMS adventure (in 2 threads), this was the last modification that made a change in leak behaviour...
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    another 2pc RMS diagnostics

    Another 200 miles on the counter, RMS still dry 👍
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    So, what is the least expensive way to install a 200 r4 in an 81?

    I can get to the pan bolts without issue yes... plenty of space
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    another 2pc RMS diagnostics

    Update. Today I made first 200 miles with new oil pump (Milodon SBC, standard volume, standard pressure). So far RMS is dry :) I'll post an update when I mannage to do some more miles. Also while wrenching I changed my front sway bar (from 15/16" to 1 1/4" ) and added adjustable rear one...
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    So, what is the least expensive way to install a 200 r4 in an 81?

    Sure, I think I'll jack it up this weekend.
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    So, what is the least expensive way to install a 200 r4 in an 81?

    Are frame rails the same as in 1980? If yes then you can reuse your TH350 crossmember. You just need to drill new holes in frame rails to attach it, I have done it.
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    Rear brakes too tight

    Thank you, I'll compare mine to these images and report back
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    Rear brakes too tight

    Hello, at first I manually adjusted rear brakes- they had no drag. Then I noticed adjuster sound when heavy braking driving forward. When I repeated this few times rear brakes started to drag and squeal when I turn the wheel by hand on a lift. As far as I understand self-adjuster only works...




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