Recent content by Twisted_Metal

Have you looked at the transfer slot? The exposed slot should be “square”. If the exposed slot is longer than its width, it is (basically) bypassing the idle circuit… Which makes the idle adjustment screws ineffective.

A piece of craft/floral wire fits in to the bolt threads perfectly to use to pull them up through the frame. Some people use fish line but the wire worked great for me.

I’m pretty sure the inside hangers, for the door panel, should only have the “fuzzies” on the rear two.

An old concours car restoration tip I read about in the 70’s…. 100% carnuba furniture wax. It needs to be buffed to melt and takes a VERY deep gloss which lasts for a LONG time. Beaded water like nothing I’ve seen since. The drawback… It took me ALL DAY to do that car because I didn’t have a...

Go back and read the thread you started a month ago. https://nastyz28.com/threads/1973-z28-2-questions-dash-related.340146/ If it doesn't move with the key "On"... It's probably a power or ground connection. I believe a 70-78 tach will work and fit correctly. You will want one with the...

Okay... That apparently isn't the problem. Some auto parts stores sell two different frame-side mounts. The ones with three mounting holes don't fit. I don't see a problem with the way yours are mounted.

Are you using clam shell mounts with one mounting hole in the center/bottom instead of three corner holes? IF so... Those are the wrong mounts. They should mount like this: I battled for hours trying to get the "performance" mounts to work and it wasn't possible. Use this style. (Four...

Chicken seeds. ;)

^+1 My car has the 26” (core) radiator in it and the hood just barely clears the radiator cap. It’s 32” overall but radiators are usually measured by core dimensions. If the cap was outboard any further, (as it would be with a wider radiator) the hood wouldn’t clear it. This is the hose I...

The A/C kick panel cover and actuator weren’t all that hard to remove in my car. Driver's side you need to remove the parking brake assembly. The only trick is getting the actuators back in! They have to be tilted “just right” to drop back into the hole they fill.

Too much work and cash to resurrect that one, IMHO. Sure, it can be done but I wouldn’t do it. I have to agree that the price should reflect a parts car. There are so many 70 specific (expensive) parts to consider in doing a full restoration. Not a Z, not an RS. Mallard hit the nail on the...

The left and right brake assemblies are mirror images of each other. Do you have the long pads in the rear? Did you possibly assemble something backwards? Passenger side: Driver's side: If that looks correct... You may have the adjuster arm/wheel on the wrong side. (The threads on one...

Do you have sub frame connectors? A little body twist may cause the door to rub the quarter. Over all... I would say it looks pretty darn good! :D

This is how I get it tight… First, loosen the A/C compressor mounting hardware to give its belt a little slack. An axe handle makes a great lever on the hub of the PS pulley while using the water pump pulley as a fulcrum point. Hard to do with one person so I usually have someone else hold...

With or without A/C? Mine is a PITA with a 2/belt pulley on the PS pump and the second belt running the A/C compressor. One thing for sure... NEVER pry against the reservoir! It's just sheet metal and can be dented or torn.