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I have a new AMD fender that I used to cut the usually rusted bottom from. The headlight area is good. I can cut whatever you need tp graft on to yours.

Curious. You mentioned you are in Europe. Do the locals have an inspection for this or do you want it working just to have it working?

Rarest option out there. Option AS4 in 1970. 89 units sold. https://nastyz28.com/threads/how-many-m22-sold-in-1970.319891/#post-3647452 https://nastyz28.com/threads/how-many-m22-sold-in-1970.319891/page-2#post-3647473

I will also add this is one of those spots that is many times overlooked during a restoration. It is pretty much completely hidden by shiny painted metal and really adds time (=cost) to a good restoration. If you are looking to buy one of these cars, take some time to remove the plastic vent...

Shame that no one sells a repair patch as this is a common problem spot. Took me a couple of hours of pattern making and bending to fab one up.

I "cut and pasted" the old indents to the new quarters:

You could fix the one you have:

Actually, what has me more concerned at the moment is the difference in height of the Eaton springs versus the originals: anybody else notice this? I was afraid that my originals were sacked out, but it looks like it is the other way. Maybe best to just restore the originals but the bottom...

Just trying to decide on which color Cerakote to go with. I've looked at so many leaf springs over the last 24 hours that I can't tell what is the real color. The Socum Blue H-245 is supposed to be a substitute for the gun bluing that most folks do but I am leaning more towards the Sniper Grey...

My original 70 switch is as your photos 1&2. The 3841892 is listed for a 1969 here: http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=102243 Note that this is an April 1968 Assembly manual page. It even lists the 1997037 as "optional" so this switch was already planned in 1968. My guess is as the...

It goes on very thin...0.8 tip on the gun. Self levels nice. Once its cured, hard to scratch. I think I'll try it.

In my opinion, if the engine is at least a suffix correct with the ultimate of date correct, it will add least 3k to the cars value and a good purchase. You would then be only giving up the VIN correctness. If it is just a date correct but from a different model or a standard trans car going in...

Thinking of Cerakoat: https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/H-245/socom-blue instead of traditional gun bluing. Seems like it would be much more durable and rust resistant. Comments?

70 was the last year for two horns standard. After that there was a U05 dual horn option that was available on certain years.

You've probably been in touch with this guy: https://427king.com/product-category/auto-parts-auto-parts/page/2/ Chuck Aleksinas. He comes across some rare things, but he knows it and charges accordingly. Maybe reach out to him and put your name on a list if he does such things.

Schematic sent

I have a .pdf scanned, but it won't allow me to upload to the forum. What is your email address and I'll send it to you.

I think i may have one in the chassis manual. I'll have a look tonight.

Also keep in mind the motivation for large gaps back in the mid 70's was the excessively lean mixtures they were trying to run due to emissions. To light off the lean mixture (not as many molecules of gas floating around) the spark had to jump a big gap. If you are not running a lean mixture...

Don't be too sure.... https://www.brakeboosters.com/_files/ugd/d214c4_fdf8da6ca8be4194ad1218d66229c7d6.pdf https://www.brakeboosters.com/brake-boosters-history You almost have to look inside it to see what the original finish really was. The inside was in a vacuum (mostly) and not exposed to...