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I believe they are there to prevent dirt and debris from being forced under the door glass weather seal.

You could put them on with a vinyl decal, then you could take them off when you sell or get tired of them. The car only has value if you are going to sell it.

There is no support bar on the drivers side, you just have to make it line up the best you can.

Sounds like your passenger door is from a later model as the doors changed at some point in the mid 70's. I know this because the same thing just happened to me. You will have to find at matching door to the drivers door as it is the original, or if originality is important match the passenger...

Thanks. That explains a lots. You’ve got braces on that front end I didn’t know existed, is that an RS model , I don’t have any experience with them.

No it’s not.

I'm finally in a position to get my 73 LT Z28 back together after taking it apart 30 years ago, and all has been going good figuring out where everything goes and when I need help I turn to the people here. I came across these brackets and just can't figure out where they go.

Just vacuum fill it to prevent air lock and run an expansion tank

Have a look here. http://www.pypesexhaust.com/sys-camaro.html Can't vouch for the quality, maybe someone else can, but looks pretty good.

With some of the new aftermarket cats out there, you won't even notice a performance difference and still be "enviromently friendly" .

There called speed nuts. They are nuts stamped out of sheet metal and they cut theads as you install them. Very common and should be available at a local store.

Radiant heat is the way to go. Heats the objects in the shop not just the air. I work in a large shop heated with randiant heat and it is far superior to any forced air system. Look at the residential units under the manufactured products tab. http://www.brantradiant.com/brant.htm

My 73 Z also has the hurst comp/plus shifter and pretty sure its original. Took it apart and cleaned it and now it works great.

I don't know if anyone has seen this yet but check it out it's amazing to look at . A gold mine in muscle cars and parts has been found. Read the story from Old Car Weekly first then check out the pics in the links. Who knows, they may have the original engine or trans from YOUR car, like the...

Nothing was cut and dry at GM back then, there were always variations. My 73 lt/Z has Z/28 emblems on grill, fenders and decal on spoiler. Lt emblems on sail panels and tail light panel. Lt horn button, narrow rocker mouldings with black below them, and no Z strips. I am the second owner(since...

Put a longer air cleaner stud in and close the hood and you'll know exactly where it will be then go from that point and draw your circle and cut. [This message has been edited by bones57 (edited December 06, 2004).]

you can never have to many clamps

Compare these RS front end breakdowns http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/g1-i7.jpg http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/g7-i5.jpg with these standard front end breakdowns http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/g1-i6.jpg http://www.nastyz28.com/faq/g7-i4.jpg and you should be able to figure out what is needed.

Your right no stripes for ltz's. Probably added later. Also there is no lt emblems on sail panels, can't see if any on rear panel. Mine had no stripes and all lt emblems.

It's possible that your pulley ratio is spinning the pump to fast creating to much pressure and/or flow causing the leak.