Search results

I don’t have a ‘71, but a ’70.

I cut my carpet into a flap to access the bolt.

I have never lost a valve using air.

I also use a magnet when removing the locks but I like using my fingers when installing them.

I need 2 hands when fiddling with the locks and is why I couldn’t use the 1 hand press tool.

The old TO bearings had a groove for grease. The replacements barely have anything. My guess is that the groove is for extra lube for the TO bearing. old on L side

After breaking 1 spring in my roller 1970 LT1, I changed them all to the same Lunati part no using the twist tool. I’d like to get the tool that screws into the stud and has a 1 arm bandit but the reviews suck. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66784 What I used along with compressed air...

The brown is the ozone protector that leaches through, but some dumb sh!t is adding too much to the rubber formula.

I don’t see it.

I cleaned mine once last summer.

When I was 21 in ‘74 I had a tire issue in my 1968 Beaumont.

Mine is original to my 70 Z28.

That was done for security reasons. I used to use a chain and lock and wrap it around the lower mechanis.

Back in the 70’s a guys ‘73 Z28 was rigged with a pull system, but what was being pulled was a 1/4” metal pin that slid in front of the upper hood claw somehow.

In ‘75 I purchased a 71 Z28 which came with hood pins and people would steal the pins. So I used suitcase mini locks. I would not butcher a hood today.

Mine looked like this on my 80 Z28 4 speed.

The choke flap being nearly closed when cold simply richens your fuel mixture for a cold engine and especially in cold weather. Once it reaches a certain temp, you hit the gas pedal and the choke flap will remain open for normal driving. If you live in a hot climate you can tie the choke flap...

Looks good. The sun should do some good as well with forming.