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Well they are both there but the left one slid down and doesn’t get along with the windshield.

Good point about the sealant. It’s installed with butyl not urethane. The glass is still in decent shape but has slid down on the left side against the metal bracket which is crunching the glass. My glass guy (without seeing it yet) thinks a spacer may have come out or the bracket used to be...

I was thinking that but wasn’t sure if what I was looking at was the date code.

Anyone know if this is the original windshield for a 1970 Z28? The car is pretty much original with the exception of the paint. 69k miles. It needs to be resealed and I would prefer to use the same glass (if it doesn’t break) if it’s the original. Attaching a picture. Thanks to anyone that can...

Thanks for that. My car was built in June of 1970. I’m seeing a JT-7. If that’s the date code then it very will could be the original glass.

I realize this is an old post but I’m interested in your windshield date code chart. I think my 1970 Z28 windshield is original but would like to know for sure. It has a JT-T on it. Not sure if that’s the date code though. Thanks for any help.

As an auto technician for over 40 years I have found that if the engine has an internal combustion leak the hot gasses will collect and fool the thermostat which can keep it from opening even as the engine is overheating.

I'm curious as to where you purchased your trunk torsion rods. I have purchase 3 different sets from 3 different sites and all of them have lasted around 60 days and then wont hold the trunk lid up anymore. One of them is thicker than the other due to the extra weight of the spoiler. All of...

I agree with whoever said the cam may be going flat. It will run good at low RPM but not at higher RPM's. Obviously you should check for a fuel supply issue first though.

Thank you for that information. I appreciate it.

I guess I should have put 235's tires on instead of 245's. Then the speedometer would have been accurate!

Very true. It has the original 12 bolt 3.73 axle as well as the original 350 LT1 engine. That's why I want the tach to be correct as well as the speedometer. I drive it to car shows on occasion and don't like running the RPM's up too high and I want it to be accurate.

No I don't. The cable screws right onto the transmission. I guess that is for sure an option though. Thanks.

Thanks for that. I didn't want to ruin it by forcing it off. Not sure where to send it if I wanted to get it calibrated though.

I have a pretty much all original 1970 Z28. I have discovered that the tachometer reads 200 to 300 RPM's high and the speedometer reads about 2 mph slow. I now this doesn't sound like much, but while driving 60 mph the RPM reads almost 3500 RPM and it bothers me. The tach needle at rest is...

Great pictures and information. Thanks.

I would love to have the parts to repair my drivers seat tracks on my 1970 Z28. Any chance you could make me some? I would gladly pay you for them!

Wow! You have no idea how long I've been trying to find a picture of the shaft where it contacts the switch. Now it's all making sense. Looking through the switch hole, mine looks like a square shaft. It has obviously been apart before and someone installed a shaft for one without TCS. The only...

I have a new switch. The problem appears to be with the 3-4 shift shaft detents where it presses on the ball. I appears to be either indexed wrong (if even possible) or the wrong shaft. I wish someone had a picture of what the shaft looks like where it presses on the ball of the switch.

No I do not. However, all the temp switch is for is to turn the (always on) TCS relay off when the coolant temp is either too cold or too hot which allows it to have vacuum advance. The TCS switch in the transmission is wired directly to the solenoid and is supposed to control the ground to turn...