I used the HEI Bat wire as I believe was suggested (note if this is supposed to be a fusible linked wire mine may be removed if it matters) and it works well so far. No relay necessary - Sniper is a low current wire 18 or 20awg pink wire.
Mine has been working without the ball installed - with engine bay line connected direct to carb vacuum, but I'm sure the ball is better long term. If you have that heater apart replace the heater core now before it leaks later (pia).
I would suggest getting someone to move steering wheel slightly (unpowered) and check all your steering linkage is tight under the car, and centerlink joints are good. My 68 had a bad ball joint under steering box caused some odd stuff like vibrations.
I found this troubleshooting chart -but...
I got the bolts off - rebuilt it and it fired up and even idled great yesterday.
I got the socket on which was key - basicly cleaned up around it, found a little thinner wall socket and lightly forced it on.
After I got the socket on I had to buy a 1/4 x 1/4 x 2inch bar at the hardware store...
thanks all - most likely what I need to fix is in the bowl so it will be tempting just to try and remove the air horn - but I'll see if I can get the bolts loose - then contemplate just removing the intake. Thing has been sitting for 25+ yrs so not expecting anything to move easily enough to...
darn - so I do have to get that off. I can't even get a socket to lay around it as its right up against a side - its ridged almost all the way around for an open end. Was it possible this was assembled bottom to top - or is it only possible to put the carb on with bowl and bottom bracket...
Hey stupid question but how do I get this 2Brl 2GC carb off the manifold?
It appears to have 4 mounting bolts (see bottom view of like type), but 1 bolt (left corner of side view near choke) is under an overhang and wedged where I can get nothing on it. Do i try and reo=move bowl first -...
My engine, trans, front seats, instrument panel, and entire rear end are all not original (and I didn't change them) - so I'm definitely not sure.
It looks like its 2PA on the axle and that 2D00 code on the housing, and the brackets attaching the rear look like they were not rewelded or...
ok - makes sense just wasn't sure what to get/buy if I want to keep my axles and I don't know if they are 28 or 30 but I guess I can always take it apart first - now to decide if I should do it or not.
Read a few of your stickies - cant complain about not enuf info. :eek:
I thinks its an 8.5 series 3 open 28 spline - am I close?
Based on what I see and axle code of "2PA" I think - which is open 2.73.
Could that code match a 1980?
10 bolt 8.5" Series 2 2.56:1 & down
10 bolt 8.5" Series 3 2.73:1 & up
I'm trying to nail down what I have for a rear end and the Passenger build code is kinda unclear so looking for corroboration elsewhere.
Its an 8.5 based on how it looks from the rear with the lower left and right of the housing squared off. It's open not a posi (main reason I want to know...
your wiring just isn't stock '79. Maybe an MSD box or something because you have additional wires.
+Bat and Fuse Box+ tied at the starter
(that is spliced up the chain to alt+ and alt sense+).
according to wiring diagram I see another splice for AC in the engine bay.
I had planned to copy the rivet idea too - but ended up just going with small screws because the vinyl was wrapped around that area so I didnt trust the rivet on the back end being tight. So far so good ater a year.