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don't touch the paint! it looks awesome get it sealed up with some clear and enjoy. Love this project and the family ties with it. I would drop it on bags and run a big cube low compression BBC.

Is the regulator adjustable? I wouldn't worry about a difference from 58 to 65 psi, the ls ecu will be fine within that range and the engine should run

Holley makes a two stage pump, but I don't think you really need it. This is the pump I use on my Camaro and have used in another EFI BBC set up. It is a dual pump but I have it wired as a single. Get a pump that will flow enough to double your N/a target hp, good sized lines, properly...

Is there a link?

In regards to the fuel pressure, if you build a new system, with new injectors, pump, ECU, all of that will be built around a 43-45psi rail pressure. You won't need to worry about it. You start to run in to some issues when you use a pump designed to hold X flow at 45psi and then try to run...

let it eat. I prefer to break in on the engine dyno at my engine builder's shop whenever I can You'd be more likely to hurt it driving around without any a/f or timing checks.

Welcome to NastyZ Something to keep in mind with the LS based stuff, the oem fuel system operates at 60 psi. Most efi system and aftermarket injector and pump manufactures rate flow at 43-45psi Stock injectors running off a stock LS computer are going to need 60psi at the rail

Exactly Fbird, I typically over size the injectors/fuel system in order to run a shorter pulse width and phase the injection timing for best response, but that may be a little advanced for this discussion.

Any true stand alone efi system will handle boost. Its dependent on the sensors you use to send the manifold pressure/vacuum signal to the computer. I am always leary of the self-tuning efi, I have seen a few try to flood an engine because it thinks its running lean and just keeps adding fuel...

Beehives are great, those springs will handle more cam if you wanted

Agreed, probably need more than 5 times to do it right.

was this the carb that was used on the dyno? If so, I wouldn't touch it. That plug looks fine, for the driving/load you described

a properly tuned EFI setup would solve the issue

I think you will need more

I've had a 6al go out, after burning two boxes and an ignition driver in an AEM ems. Tracked that problem back to crappy wiring by my room mate. The box is usually all or nothing. I'd suspect something else.

ECU IGN Line Lock Data logger Starter button

Smith Racecraft does really nice work, I use their offset shackles. 1.38s 60' on Caltracs here, btw

Awesome build! I predict you will need to keep rear tires on hand.

very nice, Fuzzy! My car is a BBC/TH400, 9" w/4.10's. 3315#'s with me. There is a lot of pics in the 'project' link in my sig. I made some changes over the winter; its basically the same setup I ran last year, plus 100hp. The front end is SpeedTech arms w/ QA1 coilovers, full soft on...

Most of the tracks in N Tex are 1/8. One 1/4 and six or more 1/8mi tracks within a couple of hours drive. The car is geared for 1/4, but most of the bracket series in the area are 1/8th mi. I feel like you get more racing for your dollar running 1/8 vs 1/4.