Search results

I have a very mild 496 streetable motor built by world famous Jeff Lawrence at Lawrence racing that cost allot less than your goal (from carb to pan) and puts out 670hp with only an 850cfm carb and mild tune..

Been driving my car on the streets for a while now and finally made it to the track this past week for the first time.. I didn't have my trans brake hooked up so I launched off footbrake and went 10.39 on my last run. I have 150hp shot on it but didn't use it yet.. Now I have 6 months of winter...

After my divorce 3 years ago, and now living alone, I got a kitten and a puppy.. I ended up getting rid of the dog mainly because I didn't have time for it, or time to let it outside 10 times a day so it could take a piss or dump.. As far as my cat, I had it fixed and declawed and I have left it...

For future reference, I found a place that carries the proper 1/2" A-Arm bolts for the 70+ Camaros: http://shop.stevescamaroparts.com/70-73-Camaro-Upper-Arm-Hardware-kit-029191.htm

That seems to be the only option left besides searching junk yards.. It seems the GM part # is 10262655 but its been discontinued and no one can find them. I think a 1/2 wheel stud might work, the only difference will probably be its a fine thread 1/2-20..

I have a 70 Camaro and need new upper a-arm bolts because someone cut them shorter for header clearance but now they are to short and the alignment shop cant get enough shims in because the bolts are to short.. Soooo I called 4 different companies and they are all telling me they are 7/16"...

I don't think the 85551 has an adjustable collar for setting depth (Summit says its a fixed collar). I will never run a fixed depth distributor again after launching my 65 Nova last summer and shearing all the gears off the distributor because the gears were only meshing 60%.. I can only...

Here is a picture of the chute kit I purchased. I didn't have to use the back tube because I already had a cross tube in place on my frame. They recommend mounting the chute in the centerline position of the crank so it will pull straight and I was lucky that my cross tube fell in that position...

I know, everything is steel except the hood. But when you look under it, you can see everything from the firewall back is tin and tubes, lol..

It actually rides pretty smooth as long as im going straight, lol.. There is no better feeling than having people hanging out their windows giving me the thumbs up and it happens on almost every street I drive on.. And who needs a radio when you have a 650hp motor to listen too :)

Finally got my parachute mounted.. I think im done for the summer, time to cruise now..

I haven painted allot of headers both silver and black and the best paints I found are: For silver Por-20 high heat paint (its somewhat of a flat/satinish color) For black Por-15 high heat paint (its flat in color) Keep in mind the black is actually a charcoal flat type black

Thanks for the info Urban!! Based on your signature, your running the same cubic inches and hp/tq are nearly the same too.. With that said, do you crack open your secondary throttle plates or are they shut at idle? And what CFM are you running? The heat line on the ground strap is exactly...

I think the old school of drilling the 1/8" holes in the throttle plates was before they came out with the adjustable secondary throttle opening screws that are on most carbs these days, I haven't seen that done since the 80's LOL.. I will try and square off the transfer slots and see if that...

I haven't made any carb adjustments yet. The car runs great at WOT.. The only problem I have is at idle. When I do a cold start I have to keep the rpms up or it wants to stall but by the time I drive it a few miles and get it up to temperature, then it wants to idle over 1500rpm.. I need to get...

It is the same carb.. Its seems weird that the 4 idle mixture screws are only 1/4 turn out. Everything I have learned says if it runs best with anything less than 1/2 turn out, something isnt right.. I just dont want to lean this new motor out and hurt it because it wasnt cheap..

Turbo Blue 110 and mainly because I also have an additional 150hp nitrous plate system too and I don't want to take a chance on detonating.

Looking at plug photos online, I couldnt find any that are as white as mine at the base of the threads (the flat ring around the porcelain), that's why I was concerned. Like I said, its actually whiter than the picture shows, almost like a chaulk white.. I thought that portion of the plug...

Looking at the picture of the plug after about 50 miles of street driving would you think its under carbed or just needs bigger jets? The bottom of the threads is even whiter than the picture shows.. Motor is a BBC 496, 10.5-1, eagle rotating assembly, modified Pro Comp heads with larger...

1300 is a little high, should be down around 1000 or less.. But even if It was 1000rpm at idle, it would still be up around 2000 so that's really weird that its farther off at the higher rpm and MPH... Are you sure you shifted into 4th, LOL..