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I’m using an aluminum timing cover also and it was leaking from the bottom of the cover. I had to double gasket the cover to stop it.

Like Copo said, you have a bad connection somewhere. Kinda had the same problem once, if I turned on the bright lights the car would die along the sudden then turn back on quickly. Checked the dimmer switch and all the usuals. I have a one wire alternator and it was that female connector plugged...

Cut around the switch.

On my 78 I wanted to use the 81 plastic master cylinder but it doesn’t have the same bolt pattern to bolt it on a 78 booster. You have to use a 81 booster for the 81 master.The 81 booster bolts up to the firewall and the rod works perfectly. The break line fittings are not metric but the front...

Believe me, they are the same. Probably a different part no. but the same booster.

There’s no since watching the local weather news here. It’s always the same, sunny & hot. These weather guys always get excited about seeing the possibility of rain 3 or 4 days away.

A 5 speed & 3.42’s. Might be cheaper than a 6 speed.IDK

Check for a Pontiac Firebird or T/A , Oldsmobile Cutlass & ect. They all used the same booster.

I had an experience with the head light dimmer once. Head lights wouldn’t come on driving home once. I got home and started checking things out pressed on the dimmer and the lights came on. I don’t know how many times things have fixed themself’s by taking something apart and finding nothing...

Looks like it’s leaking from something above the oil pan. Could be from one of the radiator cooling line connections, dip stick hole or the 2-4 servo cover o ring. Can’t think of anything else on that side of the trans.

Wipe the oil off and try to find where it’s coming from. Oil pan gasket? Dip stick hole? Kind of strange to start leaking all the sudden.

I guess I’ll have to contact a machine shop and ask there opinion on welding up this broken boss. If the repair would cost about the same as a new Vortec head then it would be worth it to me. Only other option would be to buy some aluminum heads which I’ve always wanted to do.

I pulled out the studs using the washers & nut trick. After reading a bit on why this happened I’ve learned that I should of heated up the boss before pulling them out.

No, it would have to be welded or spray welded.

Vortec head. Don’t know of any welders besides myself. All I have is a flux mig welder. Biggest problem is these are DIY ported Vortec heads so I’d have to replace both heads. I’m retired now & the house is 5 months from being paid off, didn’t want to wait that long for extra cash.

I don’t know if there’s any way of saving this but one of the rocker stud boss’s cracked in 3 pieces and fell off. First they are screw in studs that I threaded in about 10 years ago. One of the rocker studs broke off. Drilled a hole in the stud and used an easy out bit to remove the broken...

Easier way to to check. Unplug the blower motor & a/c clutch one at a time and see if it blows fuses. Do this first.

Could be a shorted out blower motor or a/c compressor magnetic clutch or relay or wire shorted to the frame. I’d start at the fuse box. Take it off and find out what color wires are going to that fuse then take off the bulk head junction and use a DVM and see if you have a short between the fuse...

Orange wires are for accessories, blower motor, key buzzer, oil pressure ect. Purple wire goes to the starter solenoid, this would go to the starter button & without crawling around looking at mine I think button needs to be grounded also in order to make a circuit. Be sure to test everything...

Pink or pink w/black strip gives voltage to the distributor so that would go to the on/off switch, the same with the red wires. Im not sure but the red wires supply voltage to the ignition switch, they should be hot at all times, check with a voltage meter or light. The brown wire is for the tach.