1970 Camaro Restofy

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by giggity, Apr 6, 2016.

  1. ZerroHalfcup

    ZerroHalfcup Member

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    I am by no means an expert or experienced so take this for what it's worth, but just sharing my experience to hopefully get you to a solution. I was having the same problem on my car doing a very similar patch with the exact same material. It was recommend to me to turn up the wire speed over the recommended level. I'm using an Eastwood Mig 135 so if the recommended wire speed was 3, I turned it up to 3.5. That seemed to solve my burn through issue and I was able to go back and weld up the pin holes very nicely. I can share some pictures later if you would like.
     
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  2. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    I got another bottle of gas, and turned up wire speed, and it helped. I also tried pulling the weld in short bursts instead of pushing it, and I think that helped too.
     
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  3. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    I worked on the passenger side pretty much all day on Saturday.


    Here is before shots. this side was beat up pretty bad. I had considered replacing the whole qtr, but the rest of the qtr was in good shape, decided to cut and beat out the issues. Ultimately I think this was less work than replacing the qtr. Not to mention factory metal is thicker. after market stuff seems very thin, probably 18-20 gauge. OEM is 16 gauge I believe.

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    cut out cancer....

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    found lots of fender pirate booty

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  4. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    I tried using the eastwood puller set, and couldnt get the copper to stick enough to pull on, a few worked, but something wasnt right...went through a bunch of the weld studs.

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    welded in a patch, the patch came out pretty close but I think I had some warping, hopefully I can mud the difference , maybe 1/8 of inch...hopefully. Ill need to see what it looks like with a guide coat on.


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    used hammer and dollies, beat out the dent as close as I could get it.
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  5. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    got tired of working on body, so decide to put Hotchkis subframe connectors in.

    not really a big deal besides having to grind off the powdercoating from the connectors to weld, and to grind back the epoxy I just painted on the rear frame...ohwell, I guess I get to spray it again when im done.

    I had to lift up on the body a little to get the old bushings out. I replaced the bushings about 20 years ago when I pulled the subframe out, I parked the car , never to drive it. The bushings looked dry rotted and looked like the original bushings did that i took out. Car has been garaged most of its life, its wild that the bushings deteriorated that much from just sitting.

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    Ran out of Mig wire , I need to go buy some more and finish welding up.
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  6. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I guess the rubber is just affected by time, doesn't even need to be moving to start to fail, wow
     
  7. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    yea, I was surprised how bad they were. garage kept.
     
  8. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    The rear quarter was super thick on my car too. Seemed to be thicker than other parts of the body. Getting to the inside through the trunk was problematic for sure.
    Lots of interesting stuff I used to pop the dents outward like pry bars, pieces of 2X4 and even a demolition hammer chisel (not attached to the hammer of course) were used.
     
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  9. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    finding MIG wire was interesting, I originally had a 2 lb spool on, I wanted to go with a larger diameter spool, which is 8lb, but I couldn't find the spool adapter that came with welder. So went to 3 different places, and finally Lowes hardware had the 2lb Lincoln wire , I bought 2, got home and found the adapter on cart. Apparently I didnt look very hard for it. ohwell....

    Part of the prep for installing is to grind away the powdercoating so they can be welded in.

    I snugged them up to the frame, and noticed they were rubbing the floorpan, so I backed them down 1/8 inch before welding. I would imagine rubbing would be noisey.

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    They snug up pretty good, but Im curious how they will look when i get the car back on the ground.

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    this is how they bolt up front with all new hardware. the picture is before I tightened up the side bolts.

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    After welding in I hit them with POR15

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    I had a little bit of an issue getting the brake line bolt in, the bolts didnt line up straight with the holes in the subframe connectors

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    These bushings were put in when I removed the subframe some 20+ years ago. I never drove the car, and it was garage kept for most of its life parked. rubber was very dry and cracked.

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  10. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    I have been reading a lot about body filler for the qrtr to roof seam.

    I decide to go with All Metal. I ordered it from manufacturer so its not old shelf stock. Im going to clean the hell out of the metal, sand, scuff with 80 grit, and hit it with oil/grease remover, then apply All Metal. Will see how this goes.

    I cleaned up the roof seams and welded the overlap. bad welds...I know but no different than factory welds. I thought about completely filling in the channel welding, but honestly I thought it would be too much heat in that area. I did short welds on different parts of the seam once cooled in fear of warping, even though this metal is pretty thick, still trying to be careful.

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    "Theres gold in them hills" Ha, some people say lead....some people say brass...I dunno, I left in .

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