1970 Camaro Restofy

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by giggity, Apr 6, 2016.

  1. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    Plenty of room for O2 sensor. I ordered a plug until I get FiTech operational to plug up bunghole.


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    I have been playing around with height, trying to figure out which is best. If Im parallel on a bubble gauge to the pipes, they seem way too low.

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    Here it is raised about 2 inches in rear.

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    I struggle a little about where to hang it, I really dont want to put any more holes in the floorboard if possible, but also dont want to hang the exhaust in the same place I had hung it before, which was in the rear axle area. I saw someone had run bolts into the rear seat belt holes, I think this might be the route I go, since I probably wont be putting the rear seat belts in anyways.
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    side view, really isnt hanging down too bad. I would like for it to be tucked up more, but 3 inch exhaust is tough to hide.

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  2. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    got her down on the ground and started her up. Was nice to move her, its been a while since shes moved on her own power.


     
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  3. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    had a small gas leak on fitting going to pump, of course it was at a place I couldnt get to....had to drop the tank. So it ended up being the "do you use thread sealant on NPT threads or not" issue. I did....and it leaked. I tried a few times and finally cleaned it all off and ending up wrapping with teflon tape. I was always told not to use teflon tape, but it worked. I dunno....

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    also put plug in O2 bunghole, dont laugh at my welding...
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  4. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    another video...let it run for about 10 minutes...excuse my fat head!!

     
  5. Jodi

    Jodi Veteran Member

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    That sounded nice!
    Awesome job.
     
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  6. 1978 Z/28

    1978 Z/28 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I use teflon tape on everything except electric sensors. When teflon tape first came out people would start tape before where thread begins, tape could peel off and end up where you do not want it. Start 2-3 threads back will not have a problem.
    With SS or aluminum fittings use a very little thread sealant too for lubrication
     
  7. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    These are all aluminum NPT fuel fittings, I even made sure they are same manufacturer, I also contacted the manufacturer they say said not to use anything on the NPT. So as usual 3 different ways to do something...I had a 1 in 3 chance of it not leaking...HA! funny part is the rest of my connections have sealer on them, the only one that leaked was the pump outlet. I guess the most pressure.
     
  8. tom3

    tom3 Veteran Member

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    Nah. That one leaked because it was the hardest to get to. The mechanical sealing of NPT threads is best but a little sealer lubes it to get a better/tighter seal too. The old Permatex stuff is pretty good for gas fittings seems like. Lots of real high quality work on that car!
     
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  9. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    Im working on putting on FiTech system I bought a while back used, been reading the instructions and realized I was missing the temp sensor and wiring harness...so ordered both, going to try to install. I want it to control the ignition, so Ill need to set distributor back to TDC, and pull weights of MSD. Also researching the fuel pump control wire, currently I have the walbro pump connected to power via a ignition switch relay. Ive read the relay is a better way to run these pumps, but would be nice to have the Fitech unit scale down pump voltage based on need, which is why you connect them. Im a little apprehensive on installing more electronics, however I like the data monitoring aspect of it, I can look at my data and tune accordingly. If it doesnt work out, I can just put carb back on. The fuel pressure regulator I bought can do both high pressure and low pressure by changing the spring.

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  10. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Your weld on the bung looks like mine. As long as it seals, it's a good weld. Good job on the "up angle" of the sensor so it does not collect condensation.
    You are right, 3" exhaust is hard to tuck under a car. If it is the same level as the collector you should be fine. Just keep some space from the floor with the mufflers or they will hit while driving. I found that out the hard way.;)
    The car moving under it's own power is a wonderful thing. I'll bet that feels good!
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2020
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