1970 Camaro RS/SS Restomod

linenoise

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Apr 17, 2000
268
CO
thanks a lot man!
Wheels...
So I mini tubbed it allowing the 19x12s in rear with P325/30ZR19XL 105Y tires. Billet specialties Daytona's. waited for nov and used black friday sale to get them cheaper. bundled tires in deal and mounting for free. got rears one year and fronts next. These were pricey.
fronts are 18x9 on 255/35ZR18. If I was to do it again I would go 10s in front and 19s. I got the wider inner fenders from anvil. and front subframe from detroit speed. I went safe. but now that I am where I am with all the knowledge of the build over the years the 19 would help with ground clearance, and the 10s would fit width wise. I was worried it was gonna rub and went safe. Also my huge brakes in the front JUST barely would hit the stock valvestem on these wheels since Billet Specialties puts them on inside of wheel(they did not hit if you took off the cap). so I had to have the flush mount ones installed to clear the baer brakes.
when I paid for them I got front wheels and tires together for 2100 and 2500 for back wheels/tires. Took like 4 months to get them after order since they make the wheels to order.
 

linenoise

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Apr 17, 2000
268
CO
ok well it happened. Its two weeks after when I thought but the car finally started...
two weekends ago I did the 'powershelf'. I got a custom billet battery tray and I wanted a way to firm that up and have a spot to put power breakers with switches. Hidden but still reachable. That took half a day to get a metal brake and get something made up right. got all electrical on and good.
got some pieces on that were almost done, radiator is in but not full. hoses are ready with clamps but the radiator is a huge 4 core and I want to make sure its gonna fit right before I fill it.
Power from fuel pump to drivers area took a little while. Getting temp power setup in drivers area for computer. Grounds.
last weekend was powersteering res mounting, final tightening, and fill up. Went with rad support area so the large line I got is too long but works. May change it later to tight it up. Got air intake setup. I bought the kit for a new camaro and it does not really fit. Got to change that around but it will work for now. It puts the MAF sensor right into the fan area. It would work but its just not going to work final build. Fan is off for now so no biggie.
So final checks all done yesterday.
fuel pump powers up no leaks.
oil level good.
ps has fluid.
nothing sitting on headers or front drive.
all sensors are on.

So I turned on 'ignition' which is a temp switch. and read the values off the obd port. it comes up as a 2009 corvette. On a really nice scanner I am not able to see oil pressure on the obd port.
First turn it fired.
Could not fit video here so put it on youtube. first time for that. cut video to take out all the fbombs after it started. I was quite excited.
The spin tech mufflers are perfect sounding. Its not too cam lopy, its just how I wanted it to be. years for this to come....
 

linenoise

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Apr 17, 2000
268
CO
Another post, been a while. I worked on the brakes which were a real baer. the lines, seriously I went through so much with that. Finally got Kore3 softlines measured and in. Got the right tools to get the AN3 flare done for the master. Even the 'bullet' would not seat right with out work. Finally got that all done and bled. I will do a video on that and all the other stuff later. Getting the tail pipes on with the detroit speed read was fun. Had to redo the electrical cause the lines for the AC were real close to the OFF button.
Got inside dash wired loosely and racepak up and programmed. Using computer RPM, Temp so far and Oil pressure from sensor on engine since racepak cannot read LS3 oil pressure from computer.
I do not have the radiator full yet, want to double check the bottom first but here is the second start with gauges so I can check that things work. Gas pedal swapped from truck one that came from Texas speed to the CTSV one which mounts much cleaner works. Gauges work. oil pressure and alternator work.
Ready for test run next week. I need to do the engine beak in before that once I get antifreeze in it. You can see temp rising here fast, I shut it down pretty fast. Also I do not like the ignition on the IDIDIT steering column. the start position is so weak on the spring. Not sure what I am going to do on that.
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,748
Pearland, texas
Another post, been a while. I worked on the brakes which were a real baer. the lines, seriously I went through so much with that. Finally got Kore3 softlines measured and in. Got the right tools to get the AN3 flare done for the master. Even the 'bullet' would not seat right with out work. Finally got that all done and bled. I will do a video on that and all the other stuff later. Getting the tail pipes on with the detroit speed read was fun. Had to redo the electrical cause the lines for the AC were real close to the OFF button.
Got inside dash wired loosely and racepak up and programmed. Using computer RPM, Temp so far and Oil pressure from sensor on engine since racepak cannot read LS3 oil pressure from computer.
I do not have the radiator full yet, want to double check the bottom first but here is the second start with gauges so I can check that things work. Gas pedal swapped from truck one that came from Texas speed to the CTSV one which mounts much cleaner works. Gauges work. oil pressure and alternator work.
Ready for test run next week. I need to do the engine beak in before that once I get antifreeze in it. You can see temp rising here fast, I shut it down pretty fast. Also I do not like the ignition on the IDIDIT steering column. the start position is so weak on the spring. Not sure what I am going to do on that.

Id go ahead and fill it up with coolant...its cheap insurance on overheating. worst case you have to buy a couple more gallons of coolant...30 bucks versus expensive engine damage.

not familiar with the IDIDIT steering column, but is the ignition completely internal?
 

linenoise

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Apr 17, 2000
268
CO
Id go ahead and fill it up with coolant...its cheap insurance on overheating. worst case you have to buy a couple more gallons of coolant...30 bucks versus expensive engine damage.

not familiar with the IDIDIT steering column, but is the ignition completely internal?

For sure Giggity on coolant, I plan to put coolant in before engine breakin run. I was just dying to check things off as working. That dash has been sitting in a box for over a year now. Same for most of those parts. I also noticed I did not do the valve cover pcv hoses yet. AND I did not do the gas tank vent! opened the cap this morning and it breathed in a ton of air. I got the parts, just got to do it and forgot about it. The amount of stuff to get this going is so large you have to keep a run list.

Yesterday when I ran that 2nd start I wanted to drive it bad. I got to put fenders on to support rad support though and I want coolant too. but its killing me. Strongest car I have ever driven in my life is a vette with 400HP LS2. This is way above that with same weight, lower rear gears, and bigger tires. I have not driven this car in over a decade now back when it had its SS worn 300HP engine.

On the steering column. its just like the stock one. all same parts I think. Except the ignition in this one when you turn the key to start is really weak. unlike my original one where you knew you were turning it to crank over this one you could use your pinky barely leaning on it and it would turn to crank. Almost feels like its not coming back to normal ignition position on its own its so weak. another member said he had the same thing on his IDIDIT column. He called them and I think they told him its supposed to be this way.
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,748
Pearland, texas
older columns had the keyed switch, and the ignition switch that sat on top of the column. Im pretty sure those IDIDIT columns dont have this piece....I remember looking at them a while back, mostly because they had a nice push button ignition switch setup. not 100% positive they are all like this though!

This has the spring that pushes back the ignition switch rod.

20210504_192128.jpg
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,748
Pearland, texas
For sure Giggity on coolant, I plan to put coolant in before engine breakin run. I was just dying to check things off as working. That dash has been sitting in a box for over a year now. Same for most of those parts. I also noticed I did not do the valve cover pcv hoses yet. AND I did not do the gas tank vent! opened the cap this morning and it breathed in a ton of air. I got the parts, just got to do it and forgot about it. The amount of stuff to get this going is so large you have to keep a run list.

Yesterday when I ran that 2nd start I wanted to drive it bad. I got to put fenders on to support rad support though and I want coolant too. but its killing me. Strongest car I have ever driven in my life is a vette with 400HP LS2. This is way above that with same weight, lower rear gears, and bigger tires. I have not driven this car in over a decade now back when it had its SS worn 300HP engine.

On the steering column. its just like the stock one. all same parts I think. Except the ignition in this one when you turn the key to start is really weak. unlike my original one where you knew you were turning it to crank over this one you could use your pinky barely leaning on it and it would turn to crank. Almost feels like its not coming back to normal ignition position on its own its so weak. another member said he had the same thing on his IDIDIT column. He called them and I think they told him its supposed to be this way.
I hear you on driving....Im dying to drive mine. I used to start it up every now and then, and putt around the neighborhood. But that came to a halt when I pulled the wiring and started putting in VA AC....
 

linenoise

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Apr 17, 2000
268
CO
OK, on steering column pic. Learned something new. I was thinking it was in the column not on top of it stock.
This new IDIDIT one definitely does not have that. its got wires coming out of bottom and its all internal. So I guess buying stock spring is off list to fix it. I might just have to live with it.
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,748
Pearland, texas
yea, if its internal not sure you can do much. You could try calling their tech support and see if they have a solution. I can see where that would bug me. I like the negative spring feel on an ignition switch.
 




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