badazz81z28
Veteran Member
There was an issue with prep. Plastic repair is just as hard/harder than the plastic itself. Never had an issue
1970 Lower Dash - Think this can this be restored?
- Thread starter 80WA7113
- Start date
80WA7113
Veteran Member
Sunday Night's progress (Radio hole backs):
I'll be doing some grinding, sanding, and shaping later today. This is when we'll be able to actually see the progress of all the previous steps. I believe this is going to work out as planned.
I'll be doing some grinding, sanding, and shaping later today. This is when we'll be able to actually see the progress of all the previous steps. I believe this is going to work out as planned.
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80WA7113
Veteran Member
Monday's progress:
I removed all of the molds and did some grinding, shaping, and sanding. After the initial sanding, I did a preliminary test fit on the radio. Everything's looking good so far.
I still have more refining to do, but so far, so good. Next stop tomorrow, the dreaded drilled out switch hole.
I removed all of the molds and did some grinding, shaping, and sanding. After the initial sanding, I did a preliminary test fit on the radio. Everything's looking good so far.
I still have more refining to do, but so far, so good. Next stop tomorrow, the dreaded drilled out switch hole.
Very nice work! 
Knucklehead
Veteran Member
What he said ^^^^^^^
- Jan 1, 2005
- 1,655
Nice work…..looking forward to seeing the repair for the hole and how you mimic the grain
80WA7113
Veteran Member
Thanks for the comments, guys, much appreciated!
Ok, I actually got started on today's escapades of the hole repair last night. This was another step I gave some careful thought to, because replicating the grain was important in getting the repair right.
I decided the ONLY way to get this right, would be to make a plug with the same grain on it to fill the void.
This meant I would now have to replicate the grain. By that I mean, I would need to make a mold of the grain with fiberglass resin, (a negative) and would use that to make an exact copy (a replica, or positive if you will) of the grain pattern.
I made a mold on the opposing side of the radio, as can be seen in the pics below. After the negative cured for a couple of hours, I used that to make the actual replica piece. The replica I allowed to cure overnight.
Side Bar: The plug idea I took from my woodworking hobby. Whenever I use fasteners to attach two pieces where the fastener hole may be visible, (for example, joining two kitchen cabinets together) I make a plug out of the same material I'm joining to make the fastening point virtually invisible. I figured, in theory, the same should work here.
Tuesday's work:
I measured the hole, and it was just under 1/2". PERFECT for what I was wanting to try as I have a 1/2" bit and plug cutter. So I bored the hole in the dash to 1/2" and cut a wood plug as a test piece to check fitment. The wood plug fit tight, so I moved forward with making the fiberglass resin plug.
I cut a couple of plugs, and of the two, I picked the best matching to work with. Either would have worked, but I gave myself a choice, which allowed me to be picky.
I set the plug in place with a little fresh resin to bond it in and fill any voids around the pug. After it set up for a few hours, I did a little light sanding and removed any flashing around the plug with a pick, to make it blend as best I could with the surrounding grain.
When I was happy it looked ok, I shot it with a little black interior dye to see what the end result would look like. I have to admit, I'm pretty happy with how it came out. It sure beats that unsightly hole!
Ok, I actually got started on today's escapades of the hole repair last night. This was another step I gave some careful thought to, because replicating the grain was important in getting the repair right.
I decided the ONLY way to get this right, would be to make a plug with the same grain on it to fill the void.
This meant I would now have to replicate the grain. By that I mean, I would need to make a mold of the grain with fiberglass resin, (a negative) and would use that to make an exact copy (a replica, or positive if you will) of the grain pattern.
I made a mold on the opposing side of the radio, as can be seen in the pics below. After the negative cured for a couple of hours, I used that to make the actual replica piece. The replica I allowed to cure overnight.
Side Bar: The plug idea I took from my woodworking hobby. Whenever I use fasteners to attach two pieces where the fastener hole may be visible, (for example, joining two kitchen cabinets together) I make a plug out of the same material I'm joining to make the fastening point virtually invisible. I figured, in theory, the same should work here.
Tuesday's work:
I measured the hole, and it was just under 1/2". PERFECT for what I was wanting to try as I have a 1/2" bit and plug cutter. So I bored the hole in the dash to 1/2" and cut a wood plug as a test piece to check fitment. The wood plug fit tight, so I moved forward with making the fiberglass resin plug.
I cut a couple of plugs, and of the two, I picked the best matching to work with. Either would have worked, but I gave myself a choice, which allowed me to be picky.
I set the plug in place with a little fresh resin to bond it in and fill any voids around the pug. After it set up for a few hours, I did a little light sanding and removed any flashing around the plug with a pick, to make it blend as best I could with the surrounding grain.
When I was happy it looked ok, I shot it with a little black interior dye to see what the end result would look like. I have to admit, I'm pretty happy with how it came out. It sure beats that unsightly hole!
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