1970 z radiator help

If your running at an even 160* on your gauge then you are wearing out your engine. Optimal burn is between 180-200 IMO.

 

Hey bkmont, good to know that old LG tagged radiator is still hanging in there.

I tried a product called "water wetter" many many years ago in my 1991 Camaro but I really didn't take the time to make any observations for real world results. It is a synthetic additive that goes in with your coolant which was advertised ( supposed ) to drop the coolant temps by 20 degrees or so. - It was made by a company called Redline.

I'm sure you could do some research and see if there is any truth to the claims, or even try it yourself over the summer and report us with your findings.

I wouldn't fret too much over recoring it with a 3 row core. - Unless your doing Concourse shows, no one would give it a second thought. - Or I believe they have some newer aluminum 3 row cores that have similar dimensions to the old 2 row cores. - That might be an option as well if you don't mind giving it a coat of paint.

Good Luck !


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Leno swears by this stuff:
http://www.evanscoolant.com/?gclid=...WJNXkqiySaAHo32y6zCfuVNbSWuaJQYUkkaAvAr8P8HAQ

Says it helps with cooling and is a rust preventative which may be the main advantage for cars that sit a lot. My engine guy says its a real thing when sonically checking the bores to lose a block due to corrosion. The old pre 1955 stuff was no problem as they were thick. The newer stuff is thin wall and the corrosion can actually effect the life. One more thing to think about

 

Just to add a little information here the big block L34 and L78 radiators are only 3 core. But the tanks will accept a 4 core re-core.

 

Hello Ron, If memory serves me correctly, I believe there is 1 member here that has(had) an original Harrison with a 4 row core on a 396 car. - I have kept this knowledge in mind while trying to decide on going with a 3 or 4 row core, if I ever decide to rebuild the incorrect tanks I have for my car. ( I have 1971 AH coded tank to rebuild, but I am still looking for an XY tank from a 1970 396 car )

I could be mistaken about the above mentioned 4 row core, but it's always been in the back of my mind as potentially correct based on the other members experience.



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I could be mistaken about the above mentioned 4 row core, but it's always been in the back of my mind as potentially correct based on the other members experience.

 

Hey Joe! Yeah I thought I hit the jackpot when the radiator shop told me that everything checked out after they tested it. When I put it in the car, it just doesn't perform as well as the 3 row replacement radiator. So, a re-core might be needed to get it reliable enough to drive all year 'round.

That's a thought, I could give it a try after I try some of the additives. Where is everybody buying the 3 row core replacements? If I measured it right, it needs to be 27".

I believe it's a 180 T-stat although I'm not certain. I've never had to mess with it.

I'll look into that additive as well.

The only thing, I now need to get motivated to to do the radiator swap. Right now, the car is in - get in, crank it up and go down the road running like a top condition.
Bryan

 

I've had a 4 core in my 70 Z28 since 1981. I can't remember if they are the OEM tanks. Maybe 4 wouldn't fit the OEM tanks.

 

Doesn't look like they would at least by my 3 core with my OEM tanks. Maybe with very small tube sizes.

Since there was a 4 core available with the V01 BB and AC BB it would fit the radiator support. Maybe different rubber isolators