secondgenaddict
Veteran Member
This is a NOS never installed 1973 Dated wheel.
1970 z28 wheel paint
- Thread starter ralph amitrano
- Start date
Ken70
Member
- Jul 14, 2018
- 66
Hi and welcome
I just went thru the same issues . I was able to get it in a spray can from Camaro central under 1970 5 spoke z 28 wheel paint . Came out perfect in my book
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secondgenaddict
Veteran Member
I have not found a spray can which is ANYWHERE CLOSE... the spray cans DO NOT HAVE ANY YELLOW TINT which is visible AT ALL... (the earthy tone of MAGNESIUM is what the yellow tint is replicating)
I added 30% by weight of COARSE POLY METALLIC to the mixture to lighten it...
I think it's REALLY CLOSE, however I have not added flattener yet.
I added 30% by weight of COARSE POLY METALLIC to the mixture to lighten it...
I think it's REALLY CLOSE, however I have not added flattener yet.
Hard to get accurate color with indoor lighting. Natural outdoor lighting works best
Ken70
Member
- Jul 14, 2018
- 66
Ken70
Member
- Jul 14, 2018
- 66
secondgenaddict
Veteran Member
OK
I got a spray out card from someone who had some of the original lacquer.
I had it scanned then did a couple of tests for texture and color after a little work I have the formula worked out in Chroma Premier and will explain how I shot them.
Chroma Premier runs about $110/pint -
4530S 58.2g
813J 40.8g
808J 30.9g
802J 26.0g
806J 88.8g
819J 7.4g
891J 3.9g
864J 2.5g
62320F 162.2g
62330F 112.1g
This makes slightly over a pint.
I mixed the following for shooting the wheels -
6 Oz above paint
2 oz Flattener ***
3 oz Chroma Basemaker reducer
2 oz Catalyst
***WITHOUT FLATTENER it will not have the correct sheen -ALSO if you don't use flattener the color will also be off SIGNIFICANTLY *** flattener actually lightens because is is really just talc.
I used a SATA knock off and shot it from 20" or so away - 20# at the gun with the trigger pulled -(across the pressure drop).
I closed the volume completely then opened until it just began to spray then 1/4 more open --- It took 10 coats to get complete coverage. started on the lug nut areas and the deep pockets first because I knew that would be the difficult part getting coverage without making them look odd.
It would have been difficult to have the coverage be too heavy... resist the temptation to open the volume!
I got a spray out card from someone who had some of the original lacquer.
I had it scanned then did a couple of tests for texture and color after a little work I have the formula worked out in Chroma Premier and will explain how I shot them.
Chroma Premier runs about $110/pint -
4530S 58.2g
813J 40.8g
808J 30.9g
802J 26.0g
806J 88.8g
819J 7.4g
891J 3.9g
864J 2.5g
62320F 162.2g
62330F 112.1g
This makes slightly over a pint.
I mixed the following for shooting the wheels -
6 Oz above paint
2 oz Flattener ***
3 oz Chroma Basemaker reducer
2 oz Catalyst
***WITHOUT FLATTENER it will not have the correct sheen -ALSO if you don't use flattener the color will also be off SIGNIFICANTLY *** flattener actually lightens because is is really just talc.
I used a SATA knock off and shot it from 20" or so away - 20# at the gun with the trigger pulled -(across the pressure drop).
I closed the volume completely then opened until it just began to spray then 1/4 more open --- It took 10 coats to get complete coverage. started on the lug nut areas and the deep pockets first because I knew that would be the difficult part getting coverage without making them look odd.
It would have been difficult to have the coverage be too heavy... resist the temptation to open the volume!
Did the factory really go to heroic lengths to paint the wheels in 1970?
The factory didn't need to go to heroic lengths to paint the wheels correctly. They had gallons of the correct paint and with the additives it had in it, a simple spray job gave each wheel the dull pebbly finish that looked a little like a rough cast mag wheel. That was the finish they were attempting to replicate.
Not to mention that a small run or a thin spot really didn't matter that much to them on a wheel.
I applaud the effort James is putting into this. I have a pint of the PPG 32961 (I think that's the number) that I'm saving, but it being an acrylic lacquer I don't expect much for durability. It has long been thought of as the de-facto standard for the wheel paint for the Z28 wheels. It is still available here in Ohio, but its not cheap.
Also, maybe at some point the paint engineers did go through much effort to get the formula just right. I could see many hours with a team of folks from Chevrolet and the paint supplier agonizing over getting the mix just right. Once it was set, yeah it was an easy order and spray.
I applaud the effort James is putting into this. I have a pint of the PPG 32961 (I think that's the number) that I'm saving, but it being an acrylic lacquer I don't expect much for durability. It has long been thought of as the de-facto standard for the wheel paint for the Z28 wheels. It is still available here in Ohio, but its not cheap.
Also, maybe at some point the paint engineers did go through much effort to get the formula just right. I could see many hours with a team of folks from Chevrolet and the paint supplier agonizing over getting the mix just right. Once it was set, yeah it was an easy order and spray.
