1973 Camaro Standard Gauge Cluster w/Tell-tale light question

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by Hrothgar, Nov 8, 2021.

  1. Hrothgar

    Hrothgar Member

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    Thanks. I was testing the dimmer switch, but didn't find anything too out of the ordinary (in the form of multiple Amp readings at least), except for this:



    However, the wiring diagram for a 1973 indicates the White lead ties back into the door jam circuit at some point, so now I'm not sure its all that unusual. And I didn't reference it in the video, but the setting on the multi-meter is 200 milliamps.
     
  2. MChamp

    MChamp Veteran Member

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    no sir. it should be light green and tan leading from the firewall. a light blue should go to the harness under the steering wheel. (circuits 12,11,10) for the actual floor dimmer switch. Looks like to me the dude has a bad reostat on his headlight switch in that vid.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2021
  3. Hrothgar

    Hrothgar Member

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    So, I finally got a chance to test the wiring harness today and here are the results:

    1). Gauge Power - 11.62 volts
    4). Charge Indicator - 3.84 volts
    5). Light - Anything from 0.0 to 10.86 volts as I turn the dimmer switch.
    8). Gauge Power - 11.09 volts
    9). Left turn indicator - Anything from 2.0 - 9.94 volts, sporadic.
    10). High Beam Indicator - .07 Max when the high beam pin is fully pulled. This seems awfully low.
    11). Right turn indicator - Anything from 1.9 - 9.90 volts, sporadic as the Left turn above.

    If it doesn't have a reading, its because it didn't have a reading (0 volts). I double checked the color of all the wires, they are as they should be for a factory warning light harness running into the correct pin.

    Nothing looks terribly out of place expect for the High Beam indicator. The rest of the dimmer/headlight switch seems to work fine, per the readings of # 5, but not only do I barely get a reading for the high beam when on, I can't actually see a difference in the headlight itself against my garage wall. Is there a relay for the high beam that I need to check, or should I focus on the headlight switch assembly?

    BTW, thanks to everyone who has chimed in, I appreciate the input...feel like i'm getting close now.
     
  4. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The headlight knob doesn't control the Hi-Beam indicator light.

    That is done with the Hi/Low switch (headlight dimmer switch) on the floor, by the emergency brake.
     
  5. Hrothgar

    Hrothgar Member

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    Ha...that's funny. I seem to recall some of the later 2nd gens had it on the column....since it clearly wasn't there on mine, I assumed....and well, you know the rest. Guess I have something new to check tomorrow.
     
  6. Hrothgar

    Hrothgar Member

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    I love Thanksgiving week. I normally take the whole week off from work, but my wife, in-laws, parents, and kids always seem to make schedules for me that doesn't align with my personal time. Any way, I was able to finish taking some readings on the wiring harness, and this is what I got:

    1). Gauge Power - 11.62 volts (12.2 - 12.4 milliamps)
    4). Charge Indicator - 3.84 volts (2.2 milliamps)
    5). Light - Anything from 0.0 to 10.86 volts as I turn the dimmer switch. (up to 11.2 milliamps as I turn the dimmer)
    8). Gauge Power - 11.09 volts (12.2 - 12.4 milliamps)
    9). Left turn indicator - Anything from 2.0 - 9.94 volts, sporadic. (sporadic, up to 9.94 milliamps)
    10). High Beam Indicator - (Now that I know where the switch is!) 10.77 volts (11.2 milliamps)
    11). Right turn indicator - Anything from 1.9 - 9.90 volts, sporadic as the Left turn above. (sporadic, up to 9.90 milliamps)

    I'm probably mistaken, but these readings don't look too out of the ordinary, do they?
     
  7. Hrothgar

    Hrothgar Member

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    Okay, so I broke down and bought a slightly better Multi-meter, as I had some doubts about my bargain basement model. Turns out, the draw from the car is 1.61 amps consistently, not the .51+ I had measured before (which, from other reading in the electrical section, would've been too high anyway). That would explained my fried circuit boards. So, now that I have a multi-meter worth a darn, I decided to take a look at my fuse box. Ugh, what a mess. I've included pics and a two minute video of a couple of the lose wires just kinda hanging around without a home. If anyone sees anything that is clearly out of place and can spot something relevant, please feel free to let me know. Otherwise, I guess its time to start tracing out every wire and double-checking every fuse.
     

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  8. MChamp

    MChamp Veteran Member

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    uhg is right bro. I'd pull all the wires, replace the fuses, (I'd need extras :/ for sure. looks like someone wanted an extra kick for their speeks. then go from there... sans extra wires of course..
     

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