YES!!!...I had to hot wire it as I can't remember how the MSD was wired up...but YES you turn the key (with the clutch in) and VVRRrooom...it runs. It doesn't STOP...lol till you choke out the carb with a towel (cause its HOT WIRED straight 12v to the HEI dizzy). Fuel issue resolved! PITA seems a conventional BYPASS regulator for carb will NOT bypass ENOUGH fuel to bring down my RACETRONIX 310 fuel pump from 48 psi --> 8. So I had to use the old bypass regulator then add in a non-bypass regulator (don't even ask....) So fuel is still moving....20 psi from pump to
Yay...just learned after plumbing the PITA fuel stuff... making brackets..etc that my bypass regulator diaphram gave up..AND of course is not a replacement item from holley. You would think a $300 bullet regulator would be able to be rebuilt!...So no I must replumb and rethink fuel line set up.
Good news for the day.... found my notes from 1992 on the wiring system. Bird NOW starts and cuts off per the KEY! Helicoil fix on front swaybar 10 x 1.5 frame hole was a success AND the solid motor mounts feel GREAT!
radiator and Fan installed...FINALLY. For those using a chapion aluminum radiator I found that the
rubber insulators fit the tanks pretty good. I still had to trim the lower part of the radiator support opening.
Fuel pressure problem resolved (hopefully). by modifying the bypass regulator I had (that you cant get parts for.. ) I can now bypass enough fuel from the 355 LPH @ 43 psi --> down to 8 psi. Installed the fuel pump shut-off switch. I went with the holley 12-810 as too many bad stories about the PS64 oil switch. Next up ...some wiring!
amazon reviews. Mostly didn't last long, or leaked. PLUS...everybody made mention of the cut off pressure is anywhere from 10-20 psi....TOO high for my liking as after running for 30 min at 2500 on my test stand....when down to idle oil pressure was around 15. The holley is SUPPOSED to be at about 3-5 psi. 1 more belt idler pulley to "tweek" and I also must replace the old R4 compressor (used for the serpentine system ONLY as it NEVER worked) with a dummy pulley as the pulley bearing is LOUDER than the gear drive.. ...so another bracket required as the dummy pulley bolts up different than what MY system uses.
So finally got my Packard 56 terminals to "add a circuit " pass-thru in my chassis plug for the fuel-pump switch. As usual...fix 1 problem and get 2 more!..lol. My Volvo fan relay temp plug basically FELL apart when I unplugged it. So new plug set is $40 and I still need a mounting method, so spent $80 on new controller with mounts and new plugs...ARGH. I did manage to button up the front suspension by re-intalling upper a-arm shims and loosely bolting everything together. Once she sits on the ground a couple turns should make everybody tight. Tranny rear seal got replaced after seeing a drop of gear oil..ARGH. I guess sitting on the shelf with a plug in it for 10yrs...took a toll!. Discovered front u-joint was bad! It had probably .010 movement in 1 axis...so taught my boys how n WHY that's bad.
ALMOST there....argh. Made mounts for the "champion DROP IN radiator" (pita) finished mods to MY serpentine system and install belt. Cut and install terminals to finish choke, water temp sender, oil pressure safety switch for fuel pump. Add circuit in chassis plug for "START" wire (trunk mounted battery and solenoid) for oil pressure switch. Just wasn't able to get it finished to fire it up last night. This next fire-up should allow me to simulate full on run time with radiator and fan...etc. Still need to re-mount the MSD stuff and add wire loom, finish bolting in inner fenders and add front wheels!