2001 s10 4.3 engine missfire on cylinder 2.

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by crazypurgatory, Oct 8, 2021.

  1. crazypurgatory

    crazypurgatory Veteran Member

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    For the life of me I can figure out whats wrong. The truck sat for about 2 months as I was fixing the AC. And it was running fine when I parked it. I have a code p0302 cylinder 2 misfire. I have check the fuel presser it's fine and does not leak down. I have moved the spark plug and the spark plug wire from 2 to 3 and the code never moves. So the spark plug and the wire is OK. I saw some corrosion on the distributor cap terminals clean them up still have the misfire. I replaced the cap and rotor. Still have the misfire! I'm at a lose I have no idea what to check I can't see it being something with the spider injection because when I took the spark plug out it looked fine it was not rich or lean. No vacuum leaks. If I had a vacuum leak it would trip a random misfire and I don't have that.
    The worst part of it all is I have a GM tech 2 Chinese knockoff it worked for about a year and now it won't communicate with any car. If that dam thing was working I could see all the engine data. what else could it be? what else should I check
     
  2. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Mayor of Simpleton Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    How do you figure that? I think your theory is flawed. While a vacuum leak could cause a P0300, but it's not reasonable conclusion. It more often sets lean codes of shows in the IAC counts or high idle. That said I doubt i's a vacuum leak; You most likely have a stuck poppet valve off the spider injector. You haven't run it long enough to show rich or lean on the plugs. Fuel trim is a better indicator.
     
  3. crazypurgatory

    crazypurgatory Veteran Member

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    My thinking behind a vacuum leak was that it would make the engine lean and not favor one cylinder over the others. But regardless we both agree that it's not a vacuum leak. So If I pull the spider injection off is there a way to tell if that's the case? Or I should say if I pulled off the upper plenum.
     
  4. DougD

    DougD Veteran Member

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    Spider is a rather common failure, that is almost certainly your issue.
     
  5. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Mayor of Simpleton Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I personally would run some fuel additive through it to see if we could get it unstuck first. I have never actually replaced the spider assembly, I was working for Ford when these were the hot issue. California forced GM to cover this repair for 100K miles so I sent them to the dealer when I came across them in a used car. I'm sure others here have done them and can chime in on the nuts and bolts of how.
     
  6. crazypurgatory

    crazypurgatory Veteran Member

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    Well I can get a reman AUTOLINE Injector from rock auto for $36.99 and get 10 bucks back when they get my old one. so $26.99 + the ride. Or I might get lucky at the salvage yard .I can get the whole thing for 50 bucks or just one for 11 bucks. It's a pretty bad miss I would be afraid to try to run it long enough for the fuel additive to work. And to do a direct injection into the fuel rail would cost at least 30 to 60 bucks for the cleaner so that's not going to be cost effective. I might just spend the 11 bucks and get one injector for the salvage yard. I hate to just replace one but money is very very tight and I have to get my truck running.
     
  7. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Get the thing scanned to be sure that's the actual problem.

    You might get lucky and be able to replace the one injector to fix it, for now.

    Your best bet for a 4.3 "Spider" problem is to upgrade to MPFI.

    SCFI to MPFI Conversion - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums
    This conversion was done to my 2000 Jimmy (sold) and fuel delivery was the one thing which never gave me problems.

    It's not a cheap fix but how many times are you willing to take the intake apart?
     
  8. sandlapper

    sandlapper Veteran Member

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    2000 4.3L Sonoma ... bad miss and no start. Chased & chased it. Used a pal's $5K snap on; no help. Cleaned them & then swapped cap & rotor.

    Those plastic OE distributors (Both V6 & V8) have a tiny vent in floor of distributor base ... it gets clogged and no way for condensation to clear. High humidity/damp exacerbates the problem.

    Carefully cleaned out vent and thoroughly dried any trace of moisture from inside dist; fresh DELCO cap & rotor. Went right back to purring.

    FWIW, that series motors do Not have a trigger/pickup in dist; although it looks like it does, that's a cam position sensor. Trigger's at timing cover and module & coil mounted atop motor (on an alum finned heat sink).
     
  9. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    ^Good Tip!
    I replaced the cap (wires and plugs) on my 2000 Jimmy when it refused to start @ -15*.

    Had it towed in for the work because it was too damned cold to troubleshoot in my driveway.
    The cap was the root of the problem.
     
  10. tom3

    tom3 Veteran Member

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    Our 01 Blazer did the same thing, dead miss. Took a while but finally figured it out and the CPI deal was the culprit. There is an upgrade deal that does away with that whole mess. Have to be a little careful with the install, once you push the injector into the port it's there for keeps. And the routing of the tubing is a little tricky too.

    https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/Vortec_spider_fuel_injection_conversion.html
     
    sandlapper likes this.

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