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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by erhan ergin, Apr 25, 2020.
I was going a say same thing, swap out the metering block
Wanted to give some update. I did make progress.
I took off the carbs and rechecked that the transfer slot is square. I opened up the secondaries a little to square them also. I increased the holes on the butterflies very slightly (I drilled 4 holes earlier). I put back the #65 iab's to the secondaries also. Now the iab's are the same on both sides.
I put the carbs back and now the car idles in Park at ~ 1100rpm with the idle screw all the way out. I think I must have opened the secondaries a little too much. I backed off on the timing a little otherwise it was idling ~ 1500rpm. I can put the car in gear and it idles at about 840 rpm. There is no stumble. Air fuel ratio is ~ 14.5 at 840rpm. It jumps to 12-13 when I step on it. It cruises at part throttle at about 13.5 so a little rich but not too bad. I think the car is driveable now. Thanks for all the suggestions and feedback.
Nice, I struggled forever till I cracked my secondaries. Then it will put your idle screw in correct position, about a turn and a half out and then your blades will be square to transition and carb works as should. Upping initial timing is key with a bigger cam and low vac. I say your ratios aren’t that far off, Id do like said , stick some tape on a/f and get it to run good . Take tape off and that’s where you run , 12.5 is great for wide open n/a. 14.5 at idle that’s nice also, the cruise drop a few on primary jet . I got down to 69/78in summer with my 780 carb due to crap humid hot air