383 stroker timing/performance and temperature

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by erhan ergin, Apr 25, 2020.

  1. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    No, I do not believe I should need power braking to do burn outs with a 383 stroker. I can do burn outs with a 302 F100 with paltry 150 hp because torque is high down low.
    I had a 76 a 78 an 81 camaro with 350 and a 85 Z28 with a 305 that could do burn outs. This car is supposed to lay down over 400hp. I read people having similar problems with cars that have just wrong spec'd large cams. I will spend a little more time on tuning and then may have to take out the cam and see what the specs are. Only if the guy who put it together would get back to me. It would be so much easier. I wonder if he was a member here. It seems he got parts from thepartguy and classic auto air, I have a ton of receipts from restoration except on the engine :(
    BTW I found these two links, First is just basics, second has some good info pertaining to my situation.
    http://www.camaros.org/pdf/timing101.pdf
    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/set-ignition-curves-create-optimal-performance/

    Small snippet from the second link for folks who do not want to go thru the hole thing

    "Let's put these ideas into action with a specific example. We dropped a very mild 383ci small-block into an early El Camino pushing through a TH350 trans and a very tight 11-inch converter. With 16 degrees of initial timing and a properly adjusted idle circuit in the Holley carburetor, the engine struggled to idle with the in-gear vacuum dropping to below 8 in-Hg. Adding more initial timing meant making major changes to the HEI distributor to limit the mechanical advance that was ideal at 20 degrees advance (16 initial + 20 mech. = 36 degrees total).

    The distributor was fitted with an adjustable vacuum-advance canister, so we connected the can to manifold vacuum, which added 14 degrees of advance and created 30 degrees of advance at idle. The idle vacuum instantly improved to 12 inches in gear and allowed us to lower the idle speed to minimize that annoying in-gear clunk. The added vacuum advance also allowed us to further lean the idle mixture slightly. This engine only had 8.5:1 compression, so it prefers more timing. After additional driving and tuning, we finalized this combination with 14 degrees initial, 20 degrees of mechanical advance, and 14 degrees of vacuum advance for 48 degrees at highway cruise speeds, yet it runs fine even with 87-octane fuel.
    "
     
  2. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Did you see that electronic dizzy I posted, that with your phone you can set all of the timing in or out at what ever rpm you wanted, no points , no fuss?
     
  3. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    Yeah I saw it. It is pretty nice but the price is steep. I already have an MSD 6AL setup with MSD coil and distributor. I cannot toss that out and spend another $529 for this. Thanks.
     
  4. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    True, I hope you find a solution !!
     
  5. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    Wanted to give some update:
    I got a MSD tune kit which has some springs and various nuts for the mech advance delimiting. I used a blue and light gray spring to speed up the mech advance so I top out at around 2800 rpm (all in at 18 degrees). I backed off on the idle advance to 18 degrees also. This is 36-37 degrees all in without the vacuum advance hooked up. The car was sluggish at lower rpms still. I hooked up the vacuum advance to the carb ported vacuum port and it did wake up the car quite a bit. I can chirp the tires at stop light now.
    However the weather reached over 95 degrees here in Austin and the car is running around 210-225F. I bought a seven blade clutch fan from a 1980 Camaro. Put that on. So now I have 2 x12 inch electric fans and a 7 blade clutch fan. I can turn on/off electric fans with a switch. It did not make a difference. Still running around the same temp. I checked the tstat. It is 180F. it has a small air bleed hole. I verified it turns on properly at ~ 180F (put it in a container and warmed the water).
    I bled the system by turning on the heater as well as using the bleeder valve.
    I bought a temp gun and verified that the gauge is reasonably accurate.
    I took it to a local shop just so another pair of eyes check it and they could not find anything wrong. They suggested doing a flow test on the rad. They were going to charge $250. I can change the radiator for that so I did not let them do it. The radiator looks pretty fresh as is. I will check temp variation across the surface to see if it is clogged. BTW the car tends to heat up while crusing, it seems to hold temps better when idling in the garage. It heats up quickly when I go WOT and it cannot recover after that and stays over 210F. Goes all the way to 225F but never goes beyond that.

    I have checked the plugs and saw that I have these racing spark plugs where the electrode does not extend over the middle (Autolite AR3934). At first I thought the plug was damaged due to bad detonation as it looks as if the electrode is cut. Then I checked pics and saw that is how they come. Any experience with these? I am planning to replace them with more conventional NGK plugs.

    I am also updating the A/C on this car. I got parts from Classic Auto AC. I started taking off the old parts and putting in new items. I am not able to take off the POA valve. It is fused on the U shape evap pipe pretty good. I bent the evap pipe slightly as I tried taking it off. I checked and saw this is pretty common. I am not sure if I should replace the evap now. I checked an evap costs ~ $290. There are aftermarket evaps at Summit which costs under $100. Anyone used these?
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...gScWcE5iM8eiOKoIQR2Ulp5Z0HBlnlHUaAs1jEALw_wcB

    Thanks for any suggestions.
     
  6. bourbon_scotch

    bourbon_scotch Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    what exactly do you have for a radiator? sounds like it's too small

    will the temp come down if you turn the heater on max?
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2020
  7. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    It is a three row standard radiator as far as I can tell. It is not aluminum. Just to be through I did the following earlier this morning:
    1- I flushed the radiator.
    2- I replaced the thermostat with a high flow Dr Gasket 180F tstat
    3- I filled it up with distilled water and coolant.
    4- I replaced all the plugs with NGK plugs. All were fouled.

    I draw the car around with heater on to get it up to temp and get the air out, am waiting so it cools down and I will restart and when thermostat opens I will fill up with more coolant.
    I checked the temp variation across the radiator and it seemed high. It goes from 174F to 205F from bottom to top. When I flushed, it did not look bad. Just a little brown so I am not sure this will help.
     
  8. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Check bottom rad hose, old ones get hot and collapse sometimes restricting flow
     
  9. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    I checked, there is a spring in there I can feel to avoid any collapse.
     
  10. bourbon_scotch

    bourbon_scotch Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    will the temp come down if you turn the heater on max?
     

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