383 stroker timing/performance and temperature

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by erhan ergin, Apr 25, 2020.

  1. rchydzik

    rchydzik Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I had better luck with a Stewart Warner water pump than a stock one. A lot better. Just an idea.
     
  2. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    The temp comes down a bit but then goes back up again.
    1- The high flow tstat did not help at all
    2- Flushing the radiator did nothing
    3- The seven blade clutch fan did nothing either. These two together performs the same as the flex fan I had originally.
    3- Turning on the 2x 12 inch electric fans cools down a bit in city traffic but it goes back up again, I draw the car today in mix driving it was sitting around 220 degrees and came down and up as I tried different combinations of things like turning on heater turning on fans and then turning them of
    4- It definitely does not like 3k-3.5k rpm highway cruzing, it heats up the most there. This suggests that there is still something wrong with timing. I have 17 degrees initial and ~37 total advance. I tried with and without ported vacuum advance. I also tried manifold advance. I am running out of ideas. I ordered an adjustable vacuum can to make sure I do not go overboard with advance but it is not here yet.

    I am wondering the radiator is just not enough with the condenser in front of it blocking it somewhat. It is a 3 row radiator (not aluminum ebay stuff) which appears to be in good shape.
    I have a 16lb cap with the red lock on it. I lift the red lock to release air. There is no overflow tank in 1970 camaro so the overflow goes to the floor. When I warm the car without the cap and check the flow once the tstat opens I see very little flow. When I rev it it is coming thru but it seems quite weak. Also the temp difference from top of the rad to the bottom of the rad is > 20 degrees. Would that be a weak rad or a weak water pump? The water pump looks like what came with the engine (I think this engine was put in the car around 2018) so it is quite new.
    Thanks for any suggestions.
     
  3. Jodi

    Jodi Veteran Member

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    I wonder if the blocks water jacket is plugged, frost plugs sometimes gets pushed into the block and forgotten about or left there on purpose.
    It seems like you tried just about everything...this might be worth looking into. My 2 cents.

    Also, proper spacing between the radiator and condenser is a must. Too much gap between and the air turbulence between the two increases preventing proper air flow through the rad. Good luck!
     
  4. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    One question as I was reading other threads, when I flushed the radiator, it took about 2.5 gallons of antifreeze mix total. I was thinking this is a three row rad as I can see three rows when I look inside the core from the filler neck. Is 2.5 gallons normal for a 3 row rad. One other thing, as I was putting in electric fans I put a thermostatic switch where the original temp sending unit goes by #1 cylinder. Coolant gushed out so I am sure head is getting goo amount of coolant.
    Thanks
     
  5. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    From your post #62 it sounds like a water pump.
     
  6. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

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    well have been watching this thread. As posted i do run into heat issues as well but not at normal cruising. I do get get this thing hot while idling thru town fans kick in and pulls the heat back out. I am sure that a shroud will help to pull air thru the radiator that is what has been used back in the day. as a note any leak in the radiator will compromise the system and cause overheating issues...
     
  7. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    I have a shroud. The electric fans are tucked in the shroud attached onto the radiator with the ties that came with the fans. The seven blade fan sits about an inch inside. The wiring for the electric fans are coming from the bottom so there is a small gap between shroud and the radiator at the bottom. That is probably not ideal. I will take a pic and post. However, at highway crusing the fans should not be in the picture. The airflow thru the nose of the car should already be more than enough. Most issues with fans show up when idling or sitting in traffic.
     
  8. erhan ergin

    erhan ergin Member

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    Here are some pics. I tried to take couple of pics showing the gap the shroud has at the edge of the rad but again I am not sure this matters as I get high temps during highway crusing (3k-3.5k rpm around 65 mph) One more thing, I am getting 80 miles with 1 tank of premium gas roughly 6 mpg that is just crazy thirsty.
     

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  9. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    The march pulley set up overdrive water pump under drive crank and alt worked well for me. That could help your situation. I can open cap at idle and water flows/sprays about a half inch out of tubes. I thought it would be more
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
  10. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    I’d also plug the vac advance and see how it runs heat wise. It’s not going to hurt anything
     

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