632ci engine installation in 78 camaro

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by clacia, Nov 23, 2013.

  1. clacia

    clacia New Member

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    If may I ask, what type of work do I have to do so that I strengthen the frames? Front only or also the rear?
     
  2. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Connect the front to the rear with a a solid set of weld in sub frame connectors. I am using the Global West tubular connectors. Bolted in the front by sandwiching between the sub frame and body AND 2 heavy grade 8 bolts on each side. A single grade 8 in the rear AND welded. A strong setup with good ground clearance to boot. I also built a set of bars that go from the front fender bolt location to the radiator support, with smaller bars going to each of the inner fender bolt locations. The car is very stiff with this setup ,but adds minimal weight to the car.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    here are a couple pics from when I was setting the bars up.
     
  3. clacia

    clacia New Member

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    Hi, Thanks for the pictures and information. Very useful. I am also in contact with Art Morrison. Sent them an email yesterday. See what they come up with.

    Does any one know what gauge are the stock frame rails of the camaro?
    Thanks.
     
  4. retorq

    retorq Veteran Member

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    What are the holes for?? Some sort of cross brace??
     
  5. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    I used 1/2" bar stock welded in the bar and to three of the inner fender bolts to tie the fenders to the bars as well. I fabbed up aluminum inner fenders, so the small bars are to give the fenders some inside support. In the top pic you can see one of the small bars sitting in place before I welded it. Like I said above , I have 3 small bars on each side.
     
  6. roysbb

    roysbb Member

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    Build big, but build short

    Man, a tall deck motor is a pain in the bay.

    I understand dart blocks can go 4.670 bore
    Why not build a 600 incher in a short deck -
    that's still like having two 302's under the hood

    Staying with a short deck you will save like $1500 on headers alone!

    How about an all aluminum 496 short deck, built with street parts,
    small pipes, small cam, you might even get decent mileage...

    Roy
     
  7. mrdragster1970

    mrdragster1970 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    .


    Most guys don't go over 582" on a standard deck.
    A 598" in my book is not worth the huge compromises you have to make.
    Most builders I trust won't even build a 632" unless you use a 10.4 deck.
    Yes I know a few so-called experts swear by a 598" standard deck, but I think it's a bad idea.

    I'm also not a fan of drilling holes for the body supports.
    Especially with the multiple bends, thin spots and what looks like kinks in the bars!!
    My support tubes are cupped to fit and welded, like every other car I've ever seen.
    Triangles are the strongest way to brace, support just about anything.


    .
     
  8. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Im sorry, mrdragster1970, that my home made bars aren't up to your standards. These bars are built to add a little extra support for the front of the subframe and the inner fender area. They aren't built or designed to save me in case of an accident like a roll bar or cage. As far as drilling holes instead of cupping the bars, I did that because the small support bars are directly above the wheels and just incase the welds would happen to break for some reason, they wouldn't be as likely to fall on the moving wheel and blow the tire or become a projectile. The slight kinks are from the cheap bar bender I borrowed from a friend and do little to take away from the bars intended purpose. With the drilled and welded hole, and the kinks, the bars are still very rigid and do a great job of adding support for the front sub frame to body connection. An added use is to give a mounting area for the inner fenders I hand bent . It is a do it yourself setup that works well and has gotten many complements from friends and peers. Again, Im sorry they don't meet your high standards.
     
  9. mrdragster1970

    mrdragster1970 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Excuse me for not being an English professor, I wasn't calling out anyone,
    but if you are going to post wrong advice publicly, expect people that give a damn to comment on it.

    Plus if you are planning for welds to break in advanced, don't weld it.
    It's obviously beyond your qualifications??
    Plus they are not "MY" standards, they are the normal standards.
    You don't kink, over stretch, and drill big holes in the cage like that.

    Absolutely nothing wrong with doing any or every mod yourself.
    I have half assed plenty of stuff when rushing, but I would never post it publicly and suggest anyone follow my example until it was redone properly.


    .
     
  10. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Its not a CAGE ( I think that's where we are missing the communications here ), its a simple set of bars that help tie the upper cowl to the front of the sub frame. They are on a street car, not a dedicated strip car that needs a cert to run. They DO exactly what I told the OP that they do, so why is that wrong advice? I appreciate your concerns that the bars are not up to "normal standards" ( whatever that means ) but they are there for a reason and they do the job well. They are not "over stretched", they do have slight cave in, as in not mandrel bent, and the holes are 1/2" and welded solid all around, which if done right, id just as strong as the bar itself. My problem with your comment is, you looked at 2 partial pics at one angle, and somehow have a 3 dimensional ICAD view of my setup "in your head" of my finished product and deemed it unsafe. Really?
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2013

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