71 RS - abandoned 23 years


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Nov 24, 2012
Houston, Texas
You never cease to amaze me with the high quality of work you are performing on the car. It will be showroom quality when you get it done.

Thanks Richard. It has been a lot of work but this phase has been different for it is just me, tools and coming up with how to do it. (Night fighting try to fit parts).

So when I drive the car I will know that while it looks good on the surface, what is underneath and not visible will be in solid condition

Out to my Camaro Cave to apply Rust Bullet to the passenger door interior. Will then pull the dents out to the lower rear panel with the stud welder gun and "Stud Buddy" stud puller


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Nov 24, 2012
Houston, Texas
Door Work

Plan for both doors with below being the passenger door
  • Rust Bullet coat the top and bottom edge (
  • Coat the interior with RB
  • Install 3m Q-Pad below the door beam
  • Paint the area covered by the door panel with the Sandalwood (GM61) PPG acrylic enamel that I have in spray cans. My original plan was I would spray can the areas not visible on the outside then take the car to a shop. This proved not feasible because of the boundary between two non-compatible paints. The door panel area though is different because of the seams which can be use to mask a boundary. At least this way, the money for the AE will not have been wasted which also leaves more urethane for me to practice with
Top edge and edge coated with RB

Fan rigged up to vent out the fumes. RB tech said without venting the fumes out RB will not dry

Some interior before RB. It was hand sanded (what a pain), to 150, vacuumed and blown out, cleaned off with Sprayway, lacquer thinner and washed down with 91% isopropyl alcohol.


After RB but not finished. (did not have enough)



Underside coated with RB then while just a tad tacky, spray caned the Sandalwood ae. The backside can be masked off so the 2k epoxy and 2k urethane will not get on it. Will do the same to the lower front panel when I get more RB

Wheel well Edge: A lot of ripples in the metal and I wanted a smooth finish. The bottom corner was also damaged. Now a smooth surface after two coats of Dynaglass and 3m Platinum Plus, some random orbital and a lot of hand sanding. The bottom corner was rebuilt with a piece of 26 gauge sheet metal bonded to the edge and the horizontal underside of the qtr



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Nov 24, 2012
Houston, Texas
Rear Panel Work:

Except for the fenders, the rear panel needed the most work. Many of the repairs were unknown when I started. Must stem from the short used trailer hitch in the mid 70s

Rear Tail Light - Passenger
Rust holes. The area around the two round circles to the right were worked on and another hole was found. A second hole is to the lower right of the opening

A piece of 26 gauge sheet metal is behind each hole and being bonded to the body with 3m metal bonding adhesive. Being a non-welder this was my only option.

The hole are mostly now filled in the 3m metal adhesive

After the mud

Passenger Hem Flange-Rear Panel Lower outer edge pass
Hem flange attachment broken loose and panel pulled away. The tab areas were sanded, cleaned and coated with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

Used long reach clamps to bring the panel back into position and the outer and inner rear panel tabs in position with the qtr.

Used a 5/32 steel to hold the outer and inner rear panel tabs to the qtr

REAR PANEL LOWER - DENT REPAIR: There was a small and shallow depression but as I started working the area found an every increasing dent in width and dept. Had a violation of Johnny Bondo rules of filler being more than 3/8" is some places.

Bought a stud gun and "Stud Buddy" to pull the dents. A glue type might have worked but there are dents in the rocker panel was probably beyond this type. After many studs, was finding some areas did not remain completely in the pulled position. Did a not a sanding and die grinder to lower some high spots

After the pulling it looks good but photos don't always show the true condition.

Mud low spots after 4th coat. First coat brought about 50 of the area level. Coats 2 and 3 about. A fifth coat about 90% level with the rest of the body


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Nov 24, 2012
Houston, Texas

Ripples on the passenger side: Most were flattened with clamps and a length of backing wood

Driver side separated : Outer and inner matting surfaces had separated along a large area on the driver side. Blew out the area, sanded the surfaces, cleaned with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Opened the gap a bit to inject the metal adhesive then clamped. This will also flatten and straighten the edge on this side

Clamp on the far right is holding a backing piece of metal to fill one of the trailer hitch bolt holes. Clamp to the left of the green clamp is holding for the other bolt hole

Separation - driver side inner-outer qtr skins: Fixed the matting surfaces the same as the panel edge.


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Nov 24, 2012
Houston, Texas
What body work remains:
  • Dynaglass and mud the lower rear panel and a 12inch long area on the underside of the passenger rocker panel (forward area) which also needs to be pulled.
  • Rust Bullet the remaining door interior
  • 320 swipe on filler surfaces and bare metal areas followed by masking these areas then rattle can 2k epoxy and rattle can 2k high build primer.
  • A final blocking (with guide coat on the other surfaces)
  • Remove and repair the fenders
  • Build the spray booth
Heat Shrink lower rear panel: Half is finished. Over the years metal had been stretched (probably that mid-70s short lived trailer hitch) that it only slightly retained the pulled location. Did not think to much mud was needed so proceeded to apply. WRONG.!! Stripped off the filler and used the Harbor Freight stud welder gun to heat shrink (immediately followed w wet rag and wipe off). Did not have a heat tip so used the regular 2mm stud tip. The HF tool can only be used once every 8 minutes. Did not know this when I bought it but it does explain why the HF price was so much less then others I saw

Crisp body lines: While awaiting the 8 minute gun cycle, hand sanded off what was on both sides of the horizontal body line. Will tape off and block. The wheel wells were also worked. Used the random orbit w 80 grit hard on the vertical. Hand sanded off what was pm the curved surface coming to the vertical surface. What had been almost rounded edges now have a more distinct edge which will add to the finish.

Front lower panel: Repaired the two holes for the front spoiler with a piece of 26 gauge sheet metal, bonded on the backside with 3m metal bonding adhesive and clamps. Applied mud to both sides, coated the interior areas with Rust Bullet and acrylic enamel.


Bottom corner holes - Qtr (driver and passenger): at wheel well. Wanted to look over the 1986 repair area. Removing the paint, encountered some holes. Used a drill w wire brush to clean the edges and removed weak metal. Cut a backing patch for each, and placed on the inner edge with 3m metal bonding adhesive and clamped, with the adhesive filling the holes,

Qtr patch
1986 (both sides):. While checking the corners, encountered weld seams so kept removing filler which was very thick. The patch and weld seams extend beyond the body. Ground down the weld seams and reshaped the patch to level with of slightly below the body. Applied a far less thickness of Dynaglass and 3m Platinum Plus

Qtr horizontal underside. Smoothed the ripples and spot welds with Dynaglass then mud

Rear bottom edge: Previously straightened, ripples and spot welds were smoothed over with Dynglass and mud.

Trunk Lid - spoiler bolt holes
: Had been elongated to place the one piece spoiler where I wanted it. This left large openings for water leakage. Reduced hole size with a backing of 26 gauge sheet metal bonded on the lid underside. The adhesive pretty much filled the gap. The spoiler was installed for the needed sheet metal location and clamping. To keep the adhesive from bonding to the spoiler put several layers of was paper under the studs and a smear of WD40 on the threads. .

Had forgotten about this hole. A goof I made in 1986 drilling mirror holes for the passenger door. No access through the interior so used a 3inch #6 machine thread screw with a nut and washer going through a piece of wood. One the other side a washer and nut Cleaned the door interior side with a 1/4" steel tube brush (bent it over). Washed it off with 91% isopropyl alcohol on a white rag and piece of 22gauge sheet metal with a bend on one end to work the rag. Inserted the nut with adhesive on it, put metal adhesive on the washer, inserted, pushed the wood against the door and tightened the nut. After setting, the #6 backed out of the nut inside the door leaving just a #6 hole that was filled with Dynaglass then mud
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