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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Chuck71RS, Nov 24, 2012.
She's looking great Chuck! Looking forward to when I can go for a ride in Christine!
You have a reserved seat
Seals on their way back: Tuesday call from Metro Ops manager. They were finishing up the work and would ship Tuesday or Wednesday. He also stated they are going to make new door and window seal molds. One change will be a softer hump on the front end. They will send me one of those new sets to test.
Door insulation on two different surfaces
----Interior outer door skin: Sound deadener already installed and previously posted is on the crash bar, above it and below it. Used tiles from [email protected] Also installed some 3m for a comparison. Tapping on a piece of each, tiles from Dave definitely had a solid sound sound then the 3m
----Passenger side door metal: Three functions
- Water barrier
- Improve door speaker sound by sealing openings
- Reduce noise and give the door a solid sound when closed. (Eliminate the empty metal can sound). The sound deadener on the interior of the outer door skin reduces this but the insulation here will reduce it further.
To Be installed: 1/4" poly closed cell foam and butyl sound deadener; left over 3m, Summit Racing and Dynamat.
Low stamped areas filled with sound deadener and ccf .
A final layer of ccf will cover most of the door. An uncovered area is needed at both ends of the door panel to avoid the panel extending inward and causing more ware when closed against the rear lower panel and the kick panel The area of the window crank will also need an uncovered area so the handle can attach.
Poly CCF works great for a solid sound: Earlier in the rebuild (when 71 door panels were still the plan) installed ccf in the low stamped areas then an entire layer on the door surface. Thump on the ccf, no metal sound and definitely quieter then a layer of sound deadener. Problem though, with ccf to the edge of door panel the 2-piece GM retainer would not hold and the panel extension problem above
Attaching the CCF: Use the mastic that came with the new rear glass. Sure is sticky stuff. Contact cement temp requirements are below minimum. Did not want to spray adhesive. Thought about Velcro but Velcro rep told me the two halves together is 1/8" thick.
Awesome!! Looking forward to it for sure! It is starting to look like I will be back in Houston in the back half of December so maybe before Christmas but not by much. If you need any help then, let me know and I will do what I can!
Installed - front/rear glass and trim: Kinda looks like a car again, on the outside
Rick Valencia, 281-705-8502, [email protected]. has been doing this for 25 year and very experienced with these old cars. Getting someone experienced with these old cars was my top priority. Was recommended to me by the owner of "Cy-Fair Upholstery and Glass". Rick was very thorough in the process with attention to detail. A neatly done job.
This morning he installed my front and rear glass and attached the trim. He first checked the fit of the trim and made a couple clip location changes to spread them farther apart which eliminated a couple clips When he saw the after market black clips he recommended not using them for they would quickly rust out. I dug through an "extra stuff" drawer and found a few more originals but still two short. He was able to remove two from other locations and relocated a few clips so the install would not be adversely affected.
The glass mating surface was coated with a primer and the glass seating surface covered with a thick bead of urethane from an electric gun.
Price was $400 which for a mobile service and the extra clip work was a good price .
After the glass work was done, he looked over and tested both door glass mechanisms and said the mechanics are fine and there is nothing to interfere with alignment effort. Great to know
I refinished the trim by removing the anodized surface with abrasive blasting, sanding, buffing then coated with Eastwood "Crystal Clear". The LF front side piece was black from a 1978 TA. My original was damaged by wiper strikes. The front windshield was a local find through a lead from BillyDean7173
Though it does not show well in the photo, the stainless steel window drip rail compliments the window trim. The window never had this until this rebuild
Chuck, Christine is looking fantastic!!!! That is great to know about Rick Valencia, I will definitely give him a call when it comes time for me to install my windows.
Looks great! I really like how the door speakers turned out. I would love to do that on mine...
12:01 am, 2 December 2020, Camaro insurance started. Finally got insurance for I am so close to being ready for the safety inspection which requires it. Never saw an insurance need until now.
Selected American Collectors. Looked into AC, Hagerty and State Farm. I passed early on State Farm. Hagerty and American Collectors both have good customer service so not a determination factor. Quotes were for the exact same agreed value, coverage, road side assistance and 2,500 annual miles, AC price was $190 less.
Trunk Lock Bezel - Took a short cut
----Original had a threaded post that came off.
----First replacement, threading the first post with a cut nut (CI recommendation using 3/16") chewed off some of the end. Switched to a 1/4" NC die and finished it and the other post. First post was not long enough because of the chewed up end.
----Second replacement, first post threaded fine with a 1/4" NC die. Second post broke off. Near the outer edge was a hole in the metal
----Installed again first replacement with one nut holding.
Aligned glass both doors: With door closed and window all the way up, glass along the top and A-Pillar are firmly embedded into the seal. Upper-rear right curve fits good in the seal area shaped for the curve.
Last bit of window crank turning takes some force.
---RH: last qtr turn
---LH: last 2/3 of the last qtr turn
Hopefully the force will lessen over time as the seal compresses and the glass wears a groove into the seal
Can not determine if the force is due the window seal ends or something else. The stainless steel drip rail, not installed until this rebuild did alter the geometry. Along the roof the seal is lower. Along the A-Pillar the seal is further to the rear which might have more friction here.
Door panels ready for final install: With all the fitting work, have worn a lot of retainers. Ordered another package of 50.
----Crank handles courtesy of member Adams
----Speaker grills almost disappear into the door panel
----Door Latch Release - Installed the 71s to use the existing door mount holes. RH top edge slightly overlaps the panel bright metal but not the LH
----Door pull, cut the area out of the 71 lower door panel because I wanted the same location. Easier for me to close the door.
With door panels on, glass alignment needs some adjustment
Installing 78 panels was worth the cost, time effort. A finished look. Much better then the three piece 71.
5 December - Test drive for noise: wind vibration engine-exhaust, heat: Without the big door opening covered, no door panel on and carpet not in.
Wind noise: Did not hear any wind noise but then not going that fast and only short distances.
Vibration - head some from the rods in the door. but that is all. Have some ideas to quiet them
Engine-Exhaust: Pretty quiet at idle and low constant speed, Would have preferred less but it's above acceptable. Will look into something to place on the exterior. Pushed down the pedal..........entirely different
Heat reduction is pretty good. With my hand, could only feel a slight bit of warmth on the radiant barrier at the floor pan front. The Essex carpet is thick and dense so it might provide a bit more reduction
Installed speaker fabric under the center dash . As with the other locations a distinct improvement
Fabric held to dash underside with mastic
1/4" poly ccf to seal speaker to dash
A layer of 3/4" x 3/16" with compression to 1/16" door weather seal tape
The old am speaker shell needed a bit more modification so the bolt to the upper right would install better
Before the fabric
With fabric installed.
11 December 2020, tested the new 6 speaker stereo system. Discovered the single din receiver was dead but was kinda expecting this. Had knocked it off a shelf and fell five feet to a hard wood floor. Light probe showed current going to it but nothing coming out though the ground wire. The fuse in the receiver was good
Managed to power up and play the front channel which is the 1986 Kenwood components, the dash 4" speakers and the door 6 1/2" speakers. Connected the old cassette-radio to the old equalizer with a spare DIN-RCA adapter. The equalizer has two outputs with each going to a pair of Kenwood amps. From there one amp powers the dash 4" speakers and the other the 6 1/2" in the door.
For music, inserted a cassette adapter, attached the mp3 player and turned on the cassette-radio. DARN it sounds GOOD..!! With the equalizer and the 400hz filter on (front speakers), I was hearing what I hoped for. I thought music from the dash would sound better as mono but not now after what I heard. Glad I installed the 6 1/2" in the door instead of the 5 1/4" as I originally planed to use. With the rear 6x9 in use, will have surround sound.
A second test was going to tried connecting the amp for the 6x9 to the cassette-radio but did not have the adapter.
Saturday ordered a new JVC single din from Crutchfield with delivery on Wednesday. The unit is at their lower end but for what I want and the Camaro listening conditions a low end receiver from a quality brand fits my need
--- 24 bit DAC (seems to be standard)
---Music from CD, USB (front including WAV), AUX (front) for mp3 player. Excluded Alpine for their USB will not play WAV
---four pre amp channels to power external amps.
I don't need most of the features in the low end let alone the higher end stuff. Don't need iPOD anything, cell phone, Bluetooth, HD radio, SIRIUS, Pandor etc, System will be powered by external amps so the receiver amp is not a factor. Don't see a need for all the sound effects and other sound enhancements.
I would spend more for better sound but it seems a waste given the Camaro listening conditions. Much of the time the windows will be down. Even with the windows up, engine-exhaust noise would probably mask any improved sound.
Looking (and I'm sure sounding!) great, Chuck!!
WOW..... 3 months and 3 weeks with no update. A lot of effort on the doors and the stereo but no progress. In between was the February Freeze damage. Damage was not that serious but getting the needed parts was for everything was sold out. Called friend in California to buy and mail them to me. The Camaro had become to much again that I quit again but Xten got my focus back.
Some of Sunday and much of today was cleaning up and organizing the garage........yet again. One way to know when my frustration is rising is by the condition of the garage and this was a major clean up.
The immediate goal is do only what is needed to pass the safety inspection with which the car can be registered (last time was 1987) and new license plates. Will then have some serious drive time to thoroughly test everything.
To be ready for inspection
1. Connect-adjust parking brake cables on the under side
2. Install wiper blades-arms
3. Door glass alignment (door-window seals may yet need more material removal)
4. Find the needed timing.
Next update will be with Christine at the inspection station, new plates on and first drive to a gas station.
EDIT UPDATE Off to a good start. LH door glass alignment is now pretty darn good. Also the interior lock rod now locks the LH door. Kept working a combination door key and lock rod. RH door glass now works as the LH. My biggest problem for being ready for inspection are fixed.