71 RS - abandoned 23 years

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Chuck71RS, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Antifreeze leak from under the thermostat housing. Putting the alternator bracket back on, the fasteners were not lining up. Dremeled the bracket openings and fasteners now fit without binding

    ps pump leaks after the antifreeze leak was fixed. I think I did a bonehead way to tighten the ps V-belt. Had a lifetime warranty so got a replacement. After install there was a leak but could not tell from where. Removed, tightened both hoses, installed but still leaks.

    Left-front ZJ7 rally rim needs to be replaced. BillyDean7173 has a rim he will give to me

    Stereo component changes Gave up trying to use the old 1986 Kenwood eq and two amps with the rest of the system so I now have all modern components. Bought a second Infiniti Primus amp and a Clarion passive eq which has a volume and fade control. Both door 6 1/2" speakers and one 4" dash speaker were damaged. Replaced both pairs.

    The basic setup with 6 speakers is still the same but there are some changes. The dash 4" being powered by the receiver amp. The two amps (one for the door 6" and the other for the rear 6x9) will connect to the eq. The eq and both amps need remote turn on and will be connected to a relay supplied by the receiver antenna remote turn on lead. The door amp is located on the floor behind the driver seat. My seat is pushed all the way back which pretty much hides the amp.

    With the setup, I can adjust the volume of the 6 speakers using the eq volume and fade plus the receiver volume fade and balance. The eq will be mounted in the front area of the center console. I wanted controls that were within reach from the drivers seat. I found no other way to do this

    So far each pair separately has been tested and the sound is good. The door speakers sound darn good. Front speakers w 800hz inline blockers don't sound very loud with the receiver amp.

    What I want to hear from the rear 6x9 is full range with a strong bass. 6" door, low midrange and up 4" dash upper frequency. When the full system is tested, will add bass to the rear 6x9 with the amp bass eq. Door speakers will be adjusted with the amp high pass filter (up to 320 hz). Dash will experiment with different blockers.
     
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  2. Da-bigguy

    Da-bigguy Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Glad to see things are moving forward! Looking forward to going for a nice ride in Christine when I get back from India around the end of October!
     
  3. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    See ya in October

    Eq installed
    : The only controls to be used is the volume and fader but the only way I could get these controls was with an eq. To attach it to the console had to use the Kenwood brackets because the Clarions were not big enough. Had to elongate the openings to align with the threads and grind off some the upper edge over the console.

    There is a 1 1/2" gap between the eq underside and console. The eq is 1" tall but the old Kenwood was 2" and a bit.

    I don't like the gap and have been working on a plan to close it using 1/4" abs plastic sheet. Can do so with machine thread screws and nuts that won't be visible

    The shift plates are the same color as all side panels, padded dash, package tray, head liner and carpet.


    ClarionEq.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2021
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  4. BillyDean7173

    BillyDean7173 Psychopathy Red

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    I like the color of your shifter bezel. Good to see something different. Nice job!
     
  5. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The shift plates were painted black during this rebuild but it looked blah to me. Next came silver which I liked but it was out of place with the rest of the area. When I sprayed the interior with the mid 1980s driftwood medium, decided to try it on the plates

    Adding a sub:
    Looked at a lot of options. In the trunk, one free air through a hole in the package tray, enclosed box, amplified enclosed. Crossed off everything trunk. Free air through the package the bass is not tight nor as strong as an enclosed plus I did not want to remove all that would be needed to install. With the trunk divider now enclosed and with insulation behind it I was concerned the sound would be muffled.

    Shifted to the interior with a 6 3'4" through the bottom of the glove box. Was promising but the needed modifications would cause problems for other unrelated items. Xten said the dash would rattle

    Came up with a sub under the driver seat, an amplified enclosed 8 1/4" x 5 1/8"", Kenwood KSC-SW11. RMS is 75 which if fine for me. I just want the missing low end frequencies noticeable. I chose the Kenwood being the shortest at 2 3/4". Width of 11" and depth 7 1/2". Will be inserted on the short length. Presently there is 1 1/2" of clearance. This was determined with a 2x4 inserted under the rear while I sat on the set. 8" went under the seat and the other three extends beyond the rear doesn't bother me for it will be barely noticeable.

    Will gain additional clearance removing 1/2" of the 7/8" of insulation

    To get the remaining clearance of 3/4" plus a 1/2" between sub and seat will use steel spacers and 8 gauge bolts between the seat and tracks. This was Twisted Metals suggestion
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2021
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  6. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The stereo sounds GREAT After a long hard struggle, what I had hoped to hear has been achieved.

    Just tried the complete stereo with all 6 speakers. It sounds GREAT. Can not test too long without pulling down the battery volts.

    Increased bass to the rear 6x9 with the amp bass eq
    Door speakers amp, made several adjustments to the High pass filter till 300hz sounded good to me.
    Dash speakers (with 800hz blockers) will test with 1200hz blockers.

    To get the needed volume mix from all 6 speakers
    --keeping the receiver "Fader" full front is the best position.so far, which simplifies the volume mix settings
    --With the eq controls,the fader works great for volume mix between door and dash and door and rear. The eq volume control for the pre-amp signal, needed to avoid more than a quarter turn so the input does not exceed the voltage rated for the two amps. Instead of a 2.5 volt signal it can be increase to 4.5 volts

    The 6 1/2 door speakers sure filled the car with surround sound. Tried a test without the 6 1/2 by turning the eq fader all the way to the rear and listened to just the rear and front. The change was a dramatic reduction in what I heard and surround sound. Installing them was worth all the effort, trouble and expense

    No doubt I will have to make changes when the amplified subwoofer is installed. Driving with the windows up and down will make a difference also.

    The amplified subwoofer will arrive Monday.
     
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  7. Da-bigguy

    Da-bigguy Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Looking forward to hearing her blast those tunes out!!
     
  8. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    No more leaks - ps pump. After three replacements (one being the wrong part) plus a lot of grief and time, finally found where the leak was coming from and all is dry now. Turns out only one replacement was needed for the problem was incorrect install instructions

    Part number 20-6000F. If the ending does nor contain "F" the pump will not install.

    After the final pump removal I hung it with a stiff coat hanger so I could see every surface.
    100_8811.JPG
    I found fluid coming from under the bottom edge of two plastic caps over the threaded hole for mounting studs used by some cars. The instructions only referenced the hole once to swap the mounting studs from the old pump to the new pump. Called CarDone about fluid leaking under the cap and was told the threaded holes go into the pump. Blankety Blank.

    To plug the holes used 3/8" - 16 x 5/8"grade 8 bolts. Grade 8 was the only grade immediately available in the needed length. The bottom hole can not be longer than 5/8" to seat against the pump. A lock washer can not be used because there is not enough space between bolt head and bracket.

    Used Permatex red thread locker. To clean the holes, pleased the pump horizontal and cleaned the holes with q-tips dampened with carb cleaner. Dried with dry ones.

    Learned the pulley nut can be installed and removed without an impact driver. Immobilize the pulley with a 7/8" open end wrench and the other end pressed against the flat work surface.

    Gave up installing a sub. Twice the sub stopped working when connected to two different equalizers sub outputs (both Clarion EQS755) Also the amplified sub (Kenwood KSC-SW11) was irritating. The sound was muffled. Music sounded better without it than with it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2021
  9. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Door panel completely installed: I have the appearance I had wanted.
    --1978: Much prefer the single piece-finished look vs the 3-piece 71 with the upper and lower hard plastic section
    --Original 1971 door pull, door latch release and mirror adjuster.
    --vertical lock knobs, don't remember what year.
    --Window crank handles were provided by member "Adams"
    -- Metro door seal ends, a lot of material was removed so door would close
    --Speaker grills covering the 6 1/2" door speakers. Almost flush with the panel and blends in quite nicely. Used speaker grill fabric to hide what is behind the grill
    100_8814.JPG

    100_8815.JPG

    Did not use a vapor barrier because all openings are closed with butyl sound deadener or ccf.. Looks like hell but it seals and the door closes with a dull thump. Sound deadener is on interior of the outer skin (lower, crash beam and upper).
    100_8812.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2021
  10. Chuck71RS

    Chuck71RS Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Trunk LED strips working again: These strips had been blowing the 20amp fuse powering the "BAT" connection on the fuse panel. Had run a separate power lead from "BAT" to the trunk going under the LH sill plate wire harness guard My insulation was glued to the side but was able to lift it enough to pull out the 18 gauge wire. Visually saw a crushed area. Cut the area out, inserted a new section and the strips now light up again without blowing the fuse

    Got a donated replacement 14s7 rally rim: One of my original 71 rims would no longer hold air at the rim bead. BillyDean7173 donated the rim (a 1978 but still a UD) that was given to him when be bought some Camaro parts from another forum member. I drove 150 miles to get it and to see Martha (his 1971 Camaro). Penny (the 73) was in the shop. When I got back I saw something that I thought was a welded repair from the distant past but it was part of the rim manufacturing. None of my 5 original 71 rims had what was on the underside of the 78 rim. Must have been a GM modification. The rally hub holds especially tight to this rim

    Got new tires: How long has by project taken? Well long enough that the tires, with no miles to speak of had to be replaced due to age Took the wheels loose to Discount Tire. When I installed I tightened the lug nuts with a torque wrench for the first time ever (65 ft lbs). Steering and ride is smooth. No steering wheel oscillations

    Second rim center hub came off: Not many miles have been driven since being registered but twice a rally sport hub came off at different times. First time the hub was found but not the second. Thought it was a problem with the rim tabs. I knew it was risky to try and bend them but a I did. The shape was changing but one did brake off.

    To come up with a useable tab ring I removed the one from the rim that no longer holds air. At the same time I got my one spare hub to test fit on this ring and the hub was tight. By tight, with the inner edge flat on the work bench and the hub installed, when I pulled up on the hub to check for tightness the rim lifted off the work bench and remained attached to the rim. I tested the other 3 hubs with one also lifting the rim and the other two came off with little effort. The two that were tight were installed on the LH side and went on with the same effort and took some pull to get them off so I know the rim tabs are good. The coming off problem is the rally hub

    Looking at the failed hubs to the ones that held, I saw the failed ones had hooks that were further inward so I bent them outward but the hold did not improve much. Reason is the spring metal the hooks are attached to were no longer stiff.

    Presently looking for one plastic or two metal rally hubs to keep a uniform appearance on the RH side

    There now be ac Second try for purge-freon charge of the VA ac was successful. The air coming out is very cool if not down right cold. With the ac work done and knowing that the evaporator is fine (does not have to come out with disconnected heater hoses with antifreeze mess on the inside) I was ready for carpet install.

    This coming week carpet will be installed: 9 Oct, drove to the upholstery shop so the owner could see the layout and the surface the by-the-yard Essex carpet would be gong on. Initially I had shown him photos, but I wanted him to look over the car with the carpet so there would not be any surprises for either of us. All is good and he asked that I call Monday for an appointment in the middle of the week. Will take two days. Will post photos. The total drive included 24 miles of freeway and the car steered and road great. At 50moh not much pedal push was needed to for speed to quickly increase to 70mph

    Front floor mats with leftover Essex carpet: There will be enough Essex by the yard carpet for the installer to make floor mats. I want to go this route rather than premade floor mats. Mats are to protect the carpet but I still want mats that match my interior scheme. To get this, mats will be made with the same installed carpet. The carpet is light in color so grimy dirty stuff on the bottom of the shoes would be easily visible on the mats. To avoid this will take my shoes off before getting in. Extreme I know but it will keep the mats looking good

    Up to the finish line: So by 16 Oct, carpet will be installed. Can then install the lower dash, passenger seat, door sill plates and the stereo (wiring already done) and some other items. Also need to attach the removed rim tab ring to the other rim and get one plastic or two metal rally hubs.

    This will complete my 9 year odyssey. I will hold a Whoopi for all the neighbors who got me to this milestone. Included will be Xten in spirit being he is far away. There will be a fluted glass for him. Would not have made it without Phil.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2021

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