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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Chuck71RS, Nov 24, 2012.
Thanks, Chuck. I'll be there in spirit.
TWO more last minute interior changes
1. Matte door sill plates instead of shiny ones. Earlier in the rebuild I stripped the anodized surface off my originals because I wanted a matte finish. There was a problem with the LH rear screw hole that I could not fix so I got the usual shiny ones. While getting the last install items lined up, came back to the originals with a matte finish. Xten passed on a few suggestions. Right now I am using JB Weld to build up the underside of the sill hole
Also replacing both Fisher emblems. Drilled out the aluminum rivets. Ordered replacements
2. Center console area under the EQ:: Previously posted this photo with the eq showing a 1 1/4" gap below. Did not like the gap so I closed it
The 1/4" abs plastic fit pretty nice but something more is needed. Settled on inserting three blue rocker switches into the plastic. Selected blue because the 10 eq controls have blue backlight. The switches will arrive Monday, 18 Oct
Carpet and floor mats have been installed: Drove the car to the upholstery shop Wednesday and drove it home today. The carpet and floor mats look great! The floor mats were made with the leftover Essex carpet. A lot more expensive than buying some ready made but nothing else would do to keep the interior color scheme. It was worth the cost.
Floor mat removed
Ready for the final Install: Strange for me to say these words but after almost 9 years not much left. For the first time since the rebuild started, no Camaro parts are in the house, except the replaced stuff hanging on the wall in the Inner Sanctum. Below is what I have left
Center console: Awaiting the three blue rocker switches Monday delivery
foreground: LH side and wheel
rear table: RH side and engine compartment
The muffler clamp, lower left, with the length of narrow metal is where I attached an LED light strip. The clamp goes around the steering column close to the firewall. The RH side also has an LED strip that will mount under the glove box. Center-top is a 12v-5volt reducer to power an mp3 player
On the floor for the right-rear tire is a replacement center hub and a retainer tab ring. The ring on the rim will be replaced with this one. The previous hub came off but I found one that holds tight in my misc boxes. The finish is not good so I transferred the retainer to one that looks good but does not hold tight . The rivets holding the ring to the rim are steel and even with a cobalt drill bit it was slow going removing the ring in the photo..
RH Table (not shown is the seat):
To secure the Vintage Air ac ducts, used zip ties.
The glove box came with the VA kit. Initially I was not going to use it because the area was for the old Kenwood amps but i gave up trying to use the old stuff. The glove box covers the full length of the open and the fit is good. Did not like the plastic surface so lined it with two pieces of sticky back black felt, from Hobby Lobby. Used it earlier in the center console storage and it looks good. The glove box curve made application difficult. A couple wrinkles but overall it looks good. To the underside will mount the single post junction block for power distribution to the two amps and the solid state relay for remote turn on
When will the above install be finished? Probably Sunday except for the three rocker switches and the door sill emblems The switches will arrive Monday and the emblems, maybe by the weekend.
As I write this update I am a couple bolts away from completing the rebuild. A completion update will come shortly
Console: Front storage area completed
With the eq
Finished with three rocker switches
Test Fit: Chose blue rockers because the 10 eq controls have blue backlight and the receiver is also set to blue
For the center shift plate, black shift indicator markings are being created. The image will be transferred to clear vinyl then placed on the plate.
Wiring octopus is what the console has become of the 31 additional wires plus the wires going under it to the amp behind the LH seat.
---12 equalizer (6 rca, and 3 wire harness)
---10 power-ground for 5 switches (2 toggle and 3 rocker)
---3 lighting for rocker switches
---2 mp3 (power and aux)
---4 wiring for the LH and RH footwells connected to the console rear LED
The three rocker switches: At the front I cut an opening for the wiring to go through to hold them in place. A smaller cut was made in 1986 so more removal did not bother me. The console was first modified in 1977 +/- with speakers so it has not been a complete 71 console for a long time
To the left is the aux cable for the mp3 player kept in the other console storage area.
The Equalizer enables volume control for the amp power the door speakers the other powering the rear speakers. It has volume control and fader. The dash speakers are powered by the receiver Mosfet amp. The pair of RCA jacks is for the receiver. The RCA cable for the other two amps plug into the left
Used various openings to tidy up the wiring. To the right of the shift plate opening are two toggle switches located in the storage area
Interior is finished, except for the markings on the shift place. I still like the RS steering wheel over the z28
The initial test print for shift plate transmission markings is good for the lines and character size but some location adjustment is needed. Finishing the interior was to be my crossing the finish line but two more changes need to be done before stepping over. One of them was completed today, refinishing the underside of the hood
With the garage dark and the dome LED on, it is A LOT brighter than my camera can capture without a flash
With only the footwell LED strips on.
Refinished the underside of the hood: The surface was refinished in 2012 but the prep was horrible and sprayed with spray can. Yet here I am at the finish line so why only now am I refinishing the underside? I thought the surface was at least acceptable. It was dirty but when cleaned, I saw how bad it really was. Took a lot of 150 grit sandpaper from swipe to hard sanding followed by 320. Other areas needed 320 swipe to hard sand. All surfaces then worked with red scuff and finished with gray scuff. Not exterior quality but a tremendous improvement
Here is the condition after all the sanding-scuff work and masking. All surfaces were covered with 3 layers of sheets and plastic. The front area then covered with Norton masking plastic
The result was fabulous. With recommendation from Xten sprayed SEM black trim with PPG reducer DT885. Application was even with no runs. Did a great job of covering up the sanded damaged areas. The yellowish-green at the back of the hood is an optical distortion. The result was worth all the time effort
Tail Pipes altered - the last change: Going to shorten the tail pipes halfway between the rear wheel well and the rear panel. . Also raise the remainder higher up to hide them. I don't think any bending will be needed, should be ae able to rotate both pipes upward. Cut off with a cut off wheel and right angle grinder. Will start Sunday
My first car gathering: Tomorrow will Christine to a Coffee-Cruise In about 8 mile from me
interior looks nice
Tail Pipes and Completion
Changed tail pipes from this
To This. Much better . No increase in interior noise. Change was done at a shop.
Rebuild is Finished: After 8 years, 11 months, and 28 days I crossed the finish line. The Camaro now has the look I want, interior and exterior. and the car functions without worry. There are some small items to add but they do not prevent the car from being driven and need little work time. Maybe better brakes?
When I started only planned to do but a smidge of the ultimate result. Thought the car was in better shape and I did not want to spend the money. But as I went along, I kept finding the car was not in the good condition I thought it was. Mission creep took over and the project morphed into do it all now or never. I have no idea how much I spent because a several years back I was having sticker shock which was interfering with the rebuild so I stopped the accounting.
Throughout the project, it was constant aggravation. Back in 2012, before I decided to rebuild I searched the website of Classic Industries and others and found what I thought I needed. Even the box stores had Camaro stuff in their listing. Seeing all the parts were available, I decided to rebuild. Yet I repeatedly found a wide range of parts did not fit though some could be modified. Others were incorrectly posted or shipped the wrong parts. Seemed to spend as much time returning parts as I did buying parts. Had I known about all the parts problems, I would have sold the car. I have never had a strong mechanical ability. Can get some good ideas but never that successful carrying them out. So it took me a lot longer then I thought it would
Yet I got through the project with help from folks on my little street and at NastyZ28. A lot of folks but Xten was the critical help that got Christine (and me) over the finish line. I can say without reservation the project would have died and the car sold had it not been for him.
I’ve been following your overhaul thread since I have been a member of this forum. Every time you have posted progress pictures I have seen the love and dedication and meticulous work you have done to this car. It has turned out beautiful and hopefully someday I’ll fly down down to the Houston area and see her in person. Congratulations on the fabulous work.
Thanks Rick. Your visit would be most welcome. Being as you are in the DFW area, I will pull some strings to get your Houston entry visa approved.
Recolored the vinyl top. The dark brown vinyl top color had areas in the center with color differences (probably faded). Thought a good cleaning and application of 303 Protectant would take care of this. In the garage the color looked uniform but in the direct sunlight it looked horrible. A recolor was needed. Great, color selection again
At the PPG shop I usually go to I asked for OC instead of SEM for SEM "True-Color" is water based and OC is solvent based. The rep told me what they mix would match the PPG sample. The shop could not mix the selected color because they did not have one of the tints.
Called a lot of shops till NW Auto Paint and Supply said they had the tints. The result was more red then brown and attempts to reduce the red turned to a mud look.
NW tried Deltron 2000 DBC but DBC does not have enough tints to make dark brown. They worked with a vinyl sample I removed from under the vertical chrome trim along the back edge of the door glass
NW next try was Deltron 2000 DBI (Deltron Base Interior) and they nailed the color. They put a lot of time into my need and did not charge me for the OC attempt. Gave the shop $40 as a thank-you.
Today I sprayed the top and the color looks fabulous with the right amount of shine. None got on the other surfaces. DBI does not have UV protection so will apply something.