71 RS - abandoned 23 years

Da-bigguy

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Jan 19, 2010
6,113
Cypress, TX
Chuck!
Christine is looking fantastic! I'm really looking forward to getting a ride in her when I get back to Houston. I should be home by Tuesday but will likley need a few days to get over the jetlag I'm probably going to feel.
 

Chuck71RS

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Nov 24, 2012
1,838
Houston, Texas
Windows up: This past Sunday was gorgeous weather so took Christine on a two hour drive with the stereo turned up. It was sunny and 65 degrees so my window was down yet almost every car I saw had windows up.

Resprayed the 5 rims this afternoon: Having sprayed the vinyl top the brown on the rims was an ugly mismatch. Took the left-over vinyl Delton Base Interior to the paint shop for the same color in PPG JAU. The shop sprayed the DBI then photographed to come up with a formula. I still had useable hardener and reducer so the respray only cost $39 for the pint of JAU (the pint of DBI was $123). Monday, took 6 hours from loosening the first lug nut to the last spray of Rustoleum spray can primer on the prepped Rustoleum brown. So far no lifting. Placed one rim on the rear RH with a partially installed trim ring and the look is a great improvement.

No accent around the 6 rim openings: Was still interested in the idea of a shiny accent around the 6 rim openings. I had a damaged rim so tested with a Molotow chrome paint pen. The outside edge was pretty smooth but I did not like the result. Will not use the chrome (stainless steel?) inserts. I saw a Cutlass with such inserts and they covered to much rim surface
 

Chuck71RS

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Nov 24, 2012
1,838
Houston, Texas
Upgraded Alternator:
DN 63 amps to 10SI, 63 amps, one wire

Voltage problems
: With engine running, volt readings were low at gauge, maybe 13v. At the battery volts initially read 14.04 but dropped as more accessories were turned on. As rpm increased volt readings decreased for both.

Tested components finding the alternator failed a bench test for field current. Tested the external voltage regulator and it showed to be defective.

How many amps being used: Wanted to know how many amps being pulled before getting a replacement. So connected an ammeter at the DN, rev engine to 1500 and noted the reading as each accessory was turned on. A max load of 50 amps will be pulled so a 63 amp alt was still sufficient

Gauge component use
3 amps (3 ): Engine running. HEI and five gauges (tac, oil, water, fuel and volt)
7 amps (4 ): parking lights, side markers, tail, license plate, dash..(all LED)
10 amps (3): Low beam - left is weak
15 amps (5): High beam (left is not working)
30 amps: (15) ac on max (Vintage Air tech said...."20 -25 Amp is the theoretical draw in full service, if you have lower amps than what is expected this is a good thing and I wouldn’t be concerned".
40 amps: (10) stereo receiver volume knob at max but not the eq volume for the two amps (240 watts total). Tested settings far louder than I would listen to.

Add to the 40 amps another 10:
---8 amps for the left headlight (based on the RH)
---1.5 amps for turn signal. Turn signal lever needs to be reattached. Flashers peaked at 3 amps during each flash. Bulbs and controllers (turn and flash) are LED. Assuming flashing is 1.5 amps for left and 1.5 right, turn signal uses 1.5 amps.

Selecting a replacement alternator: The 9 year old DN amp output was 63 amps with a limited lifetime warranty, from Advance Auto Parts. AAP did not have a DN with the same amps and lifetime warranty, so AAP approved a warranty swap for Carquest 7127-1wA: 10SI, 63 amp, one wire, lifetime warranty. The SI enabled the removal of the external volt regulator, three complete runs of GXL wire (9 ft 16 ga and 9 ft 18ga and one short piece of 10ga) and 4 feet of 10ga carrying current to the driver side.

Before installing called Carquest tech for amp output and at what rpm. Tech replied that the SI kicks in the first-time rpm reaches 1800rpm and produces at least 39 amps. Unless I am driving at night, the max load will be less than 39 so it will constantly generate 39 amps. I think this results in less wear and tear giving the SI a longer life.

Installing: The only issue was the lower rear bracket. The arm attached to the bolt sleeve cannot fasten to the rear as it does on the DN. Solved this by simply rotating the bracket till the attachment arm was downward and out of the way
Charging.jpg
 

Chuck71RS

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Lifetime Gold Member
Nov 24, 2012
1,838
Houston, Texas
3 March 2022, Christine's first major drive, the almost 150 mile road trip to Yankees Tavern and Grill in the middle of no-where close to Cortez, Tx

z3Mar2022.jpg

1656198305467.png
 
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Chuck71RS

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Nov 24, 2012
1,838
Houston, Texas
Replacing Speedo and Tach

The original speedo was rebuilt early in the project but once on the road at high speed the needle would fluctuate when accelerating over 60. During a recent drive accelerated to 100mph but the needle was fluctuating wildly sticking at 110. After thwapping (luv that word Phil) the lens the needle moved downward to about 70. Next drive was max 40mph and needle was way off. Next drive needle did not move off of 0.

The tach needle usually sticks 3,500. Was rebuilt early in the project

Even if the speedo is good and the problem is the cable, driven gear or drive gear a sticking tach needle is something I don't want to live with. Also I don't want to mess anymore with 50 year old electronics-mechanics. Using Autometer speedo and tach, I can remove the instrument housing and the dash bezel will fit better with the dash.

Will replace both with Autometer Z-Series, 3 3/8". Already installed through the dash bezel are five Z-series 2 1/16" gauges (oil, water, fuel, volt, vacuum). I think Autometer is better quality than OER With speedo and tach inserted through the bezel, the gauge areas will look more uniform.

The Autometer speedo does not have a "high beam" and "brake warning" socket but will retain them in a piece of ABS plastic in the vertical slot for the shift indicator. Will have separate circuits for parking brake and the master brake cylinder.

Today I removed the dash bezel and the instrument housing, which involved disconnecting A LOT of wires under the dash. Removed the driver seat also

Monday will jack up the car and remove the speedo cable from the TH350. The cable has to be replaced because the Autometer connection is narrower than the factory. Autometer recommended "Speedo Cable Service". 5 foot costs $75 Will also check the condition of the driven and drive gears.
 
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