RTSE
Veteran Member
- Apr 11, 2020
- 108
Excellent, I was hoping that was the case. I have a 700R auto in my garage that I will swap out with my TH350 is the speedo cable interchangeable between the autos
71 RS - abandoned 23 years
- Thread starter Chuck71RS
- Start date
fltinstructor
Member
The cable is interchangeable. Didn't the Autometer gauge come with instructions?
Installed Autometer Z-Series 3 3/8"
---Tach: 6,000rpm. The next tach was 8,000 for which I had no need.
---Speedo: mechanical, 120mph. The next speed limit was 160. No need for 160. Will never go to 100mph again so 120 is fine. Greater distance between speed markings for more accurate reading. Looked at the electrical and GPS but did not want the additional components for an electrical and GPS is too expensive.
Needed a new cable. The factory cable length is 57" plus 2 1/2" of additional length to reach the back of the Autometer. The Autometer end is narrower 5/8" - 18 requiring a custom cable costing $75 over the internet. Yet I lucked out finding a 63" cable with the needed ends at O"Reilly (CA-3002) for $10.82 (with tax). While out one day, my route took me close to a custom rod shop so I stopped to ask if they make cables. They did not but asked me what I needed one for. The shop guy said a 69 El Camino (with cruise control) had the needed ends but was 63". He checked the O"Reilly website and they had it. For $10 it was worth a shot. The additional inches resulted in a gentle curve against the body underside. Slit a length of 1/2" heater hose and place it around this cable area to prevent rubbing against the body.
The speedo needle has quick response with smooth needle movement
Removed the trans tail extension due to something I did. The factory bolt torque is 25 ft lbs but I could not loosen the bolts with a 1/2" ratchet drive. Had to use an impact wrench. Geeze. At least I know the drive gear is 10 teeth and in good condition. The 21 teeth driven gear had a tad of slop so replace it and the bullet. Found a trans parts place only 6 miles from the house. According to an online calculator, with 10 teeth drive, 225x70x14 tires and 2.73 rear gears the driven gear should be 20.83. The difference is 2.1% for 1.26 mph at 60. This was an improvement over the 20.60 factory 215 tires. 20.83 is close enough for me.
36 electrical wires to connect for the 7 gauges and five LED indicator lights installed through the bezel. Would have been 38 but decided not to connect the cig lighter because I had no need of the circuit. With the removal of the instrument housing, I cut off the 12 pin plug to use the factory wiring. Used two Deutsch two-part plugs with 6" 18ga wire leads, one with 12 pins and one with 8 pins . The single factory power wire was connected to three leads and the wire for lights was connected to three leads. 14 ground wires were connected to 5 plug wires. On the other side of the plug ground leads were reduced to three and grounded to three different locations. This config allowed the removal of 9 wires connected to the fuse panel for power and lights. A much better ground location without the instrument panel in the way.
---Tach: 6,000rpm. The next tach was 8,000 for which I had no need.
---Speedo: mechanical, 120mph. The next speed limit was 160. No need for 160. Will never go to 100mph again so 120 is fine. Greater distance between speed markings for more accurate reading. Looked at the electrical and GPS but did not want the additional components for an electrical and GPS is too expensive.
Needed a new cable. The factory cable length is 57" plus 2 1/2" of additional length to reach the back of the Autometer. The Autometer end is narrower 5/8" - 18 requiring a custom cable costing $75 over the internet. Yet I lucked out finding a 63" cable with the needed ends at O"Reilly (CA-3002) for $10.82 (with tax). While out one day, my route took me close to a custom rod shop so I stopped to ask if they make cables. They did not but asked me what I needed one for. The shop guy said a 69 El Camino (with cruise control) had the needed ends but was 63". He checked the O"Reilly website and they had it. For $10 it was worth a shot. The additional inches resulted in a gentle curve against the body underside. Slit a length of 1/2" heater hose and place it around this cable area to prevent rubbing against the body.
The speedo needle has quick response with smooth needle movement
Removed the trans tail extension due to something I did. The factory bolt torque is 25 ft lbs but I could not loosen the bolts with a 1/2" ratchet drive. Had to use an impact wrench. Geeze. At least I know the drive gear is 10 teeth and in good condition. The 21 teeth driven gear had a tad of slop so replace it and the bullet. Found a trans parts place only 6 miles from the house. According to an online calculator, with 10 teeth drive, 225x70x14 tires and 2.73 rear gears the driven gear should be 20.83. The difference is 2.1% for 1.26 mph at 60. This was an improvement over the 20.60 factory 215 tires. 20.83 is close enough for me.
36 electrical wires to connect for the 7 gauges and five LED indicator lights installed through the bezel. Would have been 38 but decided not to connect the cig lighter because I had no need of the circuit. With the removal of the instrument housing, I cut off the 12 pin plug to use the factory wiring. Used two Deutsch two-part plugs with 6" 18ga wire leads, one with 12 pins and one with 8 pins . The single factory power wire was connected to three leads and the wire for lights was connected to three leads. 14 ground wires were connected to 5 plug wires. On the other side of the plug ground leads were reduced to three and grounded to three different locations. This config allowed the removal of 9 wires connected to the fuse panel for power and lights. A much better ground location without the instrument panel in the way.
wnmech
Veteran Member
Chuck
you have been a very busy guy. It just proves that we are never done with our cars. Always a way to spend money on our toys.
you have been a very busy guy. It just proves that we are never done with our cars. Always a way to spend money on our toys.
Rick:
The dash looks even better now with all the same gauges and three indicator lights (high beam, master cylinder, parking brake) in the shift location slot.
Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Till it warms up next work to resume working in the uninsulated garage, started designing interior electrical stuff. The driver side lower dash and center console are still out of the car so a good time to do this.
Intermittent horn sounding. Posted asking how to locate the cause of intermittent horn sounding when the padded wheel center is not pushed. Jim Streib posted an approach
Add a light in the glove box that comes on when the door is opened. Will modify the Vintage Air glove box so a spring contact can compress when the door is closed. No real need for it, just like to have it.
Replace the round overhead dome light with a square or rectangle design preferably with an on-off switch. The factory round one on a rectangle overhead looks out of place and too small in proportion to the overhead. It must have bayonet contact so I can use the 36 LED bayonet in the present light. I am open to any brand. A replacement light with it's own on-off switch would preclude having to use a rocker switch
Connect the three 3-prong rocker switches. Since I am not using the cig lighter, its battery powered wire is ideal for this. This further reduces the connections to the fuse panel terminals
---turn on-off trunk LED strips replacing the trunk toggle switch. Provides a visual that if the rocker LED is on the strips are on
---power the mp3 player. Using a 12v-5,5v reducer
---Turn off both footwell LEDs and rear console light
Non electrical - shift cable. Can not shift into L! with the horseshoe shifter but I can rotate the trans bracket the cable is attached to L1.
Intermittent horn sounding. Posted asking how to locate the cause of intermittent horn sounding when the padded wheel center is not pushed. Jim Streib posted an approach
Add a light in the glove box that comes on when the door is opened. Will modify the Vintage Air glove box so a spring contact can compress when the door is closed. No real need for it, just like to have it.
Replace the round overhead dome light with a square or rectangle design preferably with an on-off switch. The factory round one on a rectangle overhead looks out of place and too small in proportion to the overhead. It must have bayonet contact so I can use the 36 LED bayonet in the present light. I am open to any brand. A replacement light with it's own on-off switch would preclude having to use a rocker switch
Connect the three 3-prong rocker switches. Since I am not using the cig lighter, its battery powered wire is ideal for this. This further reduces the connections to the fuse panel terminals
---turn on-off trunk LED strips replacing the trunk toggle switch. Provides a visual that if the rocker LED is on the strips are on
---power the mp3 player. Using a 12v-5,5v reducer
---Turn off both footwell LEDs and rear console light
Non electrical - shift cable. Can not shift into L! with the horseshoe shifter but I can rotate the trans bracket the cable is attached to L1.
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Shift cable now moves trans into L1: With the cable removed from the trans bracket rotated the bracket CCW to L1 (heard 5 clicks). With the fastener inserted through the cable it was to the rear of the bracket opening. Rotated CW to park (heard 5 clicks). With fastener inserted through the cable it was to the rear of the bracket opening. Finally realized the cable at the tranny was to short. Gripped the end with vise grips, pulled and got a bit more length. With cable in park inserted the fastener through cable and bracket. Rotated CCW and got 5 clicks. Rotated cw to park - five clicks, Rotated ccw to to L1 (5 clicks).
Went for a drive. A lot more fun from a standing start with shifter in L!. I could feel the smile
Rocker Switch to increase from 3 to 5: Three are already installed below the console mounted eq. Two more (on-off-on) will be added to the upward angled surface to the rear of the shifter plates. The amount of changes reached the point that I made a set of drawings. Would be a disaster to do so without them.
--- Trunk LED strips replacing the trunk toggle switch. Provides a visual that if the rocker LED is on the strips are on
---Remote Turn On - 2 amps: Had been wired to the fuse panel "ACC" terminal. Was going to power the mp3 player but there is sufficient amps to use the factory "Radio" power wire.
---Glove Box: A New circuit to be added. The glove box is hard plastic supplied by Vintage Air so a good surface for a spring contact and light fixture
The above three will be powered and grounded with the Cig Lighter circuit. The Cig Lighter won't be used.
Two rockers below are on-off-on and grounded through the "Compt LP" return wire
---Dome Light : Will replace the factory round dome with a square/rectangle and might not be Camaro. Does not have to have a switch. Powered by the dome light circuit
---Footwell LEDs and rear console light: Powered by "Compt LP" wire.
Went for a drive. A lot more fun from a standing start with shifter in L!. I could feel the smile
Rocker Switch to increase from 3 to 5: Three are already installed below the console mounted eq. Two more (on-off-on) will be added to the upward angled surface to the rear of the shifter plates. The amount of changes reached the point that I made a set of drawings. Would be a disaster to do so without them.
--- Trunk LED strips replacing the trunk toggle switch. Provides a visual that if the rocker LED is on the strips are on
---Remote Turn On - 2 amps: Had been wired to the fuse panel "ACC" terminal. Was going to power the mp3 player but there is sufficient amps to use the factory "Radio" power wire.
---Glove Box: A New circuit to be added. The glove box is hard plastic supplied by Vintage Air so a good surface for a spring contact and light fixture
The above three will be powered and grounded with the Cig Lighter circuit. The Cig Lighter won't be used.
Two rockers below are on-off-on and grounded through the "Compt LP" return wire
---Dome Light : Will replace the factory round dome with a square/rectangle and might not be Camaro. Does not have to have a switch. Powered by the dome light circuit
---Footwell LEDs and rear console light: Powered by "Compt LP" wire.
Fit a square peg in a round hole by squaring the round hole. This is how I installed a rectangle contact switch (AC Delco 94580496) - $2.63) in the round glove box opening using a triangle file. I could not find a reproduction that did not had a light bulb socket. Ebay had used originals but no way will I install a 50 year old electrical part.
Ordered a white Led light with a black housing on an aluminum thread. Drill a hole in the hard plastic Vintage Air glove box, inset through the under side and secure with the supplied nut on the other inside. I had wasted a lot of time looking until Xten passed on what to use. DOH...!!
A broken 4" speaker tab leads to better sound Among the wiring work was increasing wire lead length and try a 1200hz blocker on the Pioneer 4" under the dash. Could not see the speaker tabs on the right due to the vent ducts so had to install by feel. The power wire connector did install yet the contact broke off. It was in the wire connecter when the wire was removed.
Looked into having the wire soldered to the speaker but only one place in the vicinity solders and wanted $30.
The idea of installing JL 4" came to mind. JL 6 1/2" are in the door and I really like the more distinct sound over the Pioneer. When the Pioneer 4" were installed so were Pioneer 6x9 in the back. Door speakers where not even an idea at that dime. The price was $99. For me it was worth $99 for better sound than $30 to solder wire to the Pioneer
Change to the 42 wires for dash bezel gauges and indicator lights: Had quite a mess with all wires on the right side of the steering column and being to long.
12 LH using an 8 pin Deutsch plug were shortened, moved to the left side of the steering column with light and power from the fuse panel.
20 RH were shortened, reconnected to a 12 pin Deutsch plug, using the factory wiring on the other ends.
10 wires for the indicators will be attached to a third 8-pin Deutsch plug (arrive Saturday)
Replacement Led strips in the two front footwells installed and wired to the orange "Compt. L.P." The center console rear light is also on this circuit
Last two of 5 rocker switches added to the center console: Two on-off-on located to the rear of the shift plates. They are only 3/4" long but in good proportion to the surrounding area. One will control the dome light and the other the two front footwells and the console rear light. With these rockers the dome, front footwells and console rear light can
-- Turn on when a door is opened or headlight is turned
-- Turn on when the other on position is selected
-- Never come on if in the "off" position. Handy if a door needs to be open for a long time.
All 12 console switch wires attached to an 8-pin Deutsch plug. Console removal in the future is now greatly simplified. Just unplug the Deutsch, two bullet connectors and the two screws attaching the eq to the console (which has 6 RCA cables and a power plug).
Ordered a white Led light with a black housing on an aluminum thread. Drill a hole in the hard plastic Vintage Air glove box, inset through the under side and secure with the supplied nut on the other inside. I had wasted a lot of time looking until Xten passed on what to use. DOH...!!
A broken 4" speaker tab leads to better sound Among the wiring work was increasing wire lead length and try a 1200hz blocker on the Pioneer 4" under the dash. Could not see the speaker tabs on the right due to the vent ducts so had to install by feel. The power wire connector did install yet the contact broke off. It was in the wire connecter when the wire was removed.
Looked into having the wire soldered to the speaker but only one place in the vicinity solders and wanted $30.
The idea of installing JL 4" came to mind. JL 6 1/2" are in the door and I really like the more distinct sound over the Pioneer. When the Pioneer 4" were installed so were Pioneer 6x9 in the back. Door speakers where not even an idea at that dime. The price was $99. For me it was worth $99 for better sound than $30 to solder wire to the Pioneer
Change to the 42 wires for dash bezel gauges and indicator lights: Had quite a mess with all wires on the right side of the steering column and being to long.
12 LH using an 8 pin Deutsch plug were shortened, moved to the left side of the steering column with light and power from the fuse panel.
20 RH were shortened, reconnected to a 12 pin Deutsch plug, using the factory wiring on the other ends.
10 wires for the indicators will be attached to a third 8-pin Deutsch plug (arrive Saturday)
Replacement Led strips in the two front footwells installed and wired to the orange "Compt. L.P." The center console rear light is also on this circuit
Last two of 5 rocker switches added to the center console: Two on-off-on located to the rear of the shift plates. They are only 3/4" long but in good proportion to the surrounding area. One will control the dome light and the other the two front footwells and the console rear light. With these rockers the dome, front footwells and console rear light can
-- Turn on when a door is opened or headlight is turned
-- Turn on when the other on position is selected
-- Never come on if in the "off" position. Handy if a door needs to be open for a long time.
All 12 console switch wires attached to an 8-pin Deutsch plug. Console removal in the future is now greatly simplified. Just unplug the Deutsch, two bullet connectors and the two screws attaching the eq to the console (which has 6 RCA cables and a power plug).
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Finished Dash Bezel Gauges and Indicator Lights
The shift indicator is blanked off with ABS plastic and three indicator lights installed
--Blue (top) high beam
--White (middle) Parking Brake. Made this a separate circuit from the Master Cylinder
--Red (bottom) Parking Brake
42 wires mostly tamed: Used already wired Deutsch plugs because I did not want to deal with connecting wires to 56 Molex pins. On the right, two ground wires (in plastic loom) are joined with bullet connections to the rest of the wires grounded to the steering column bracket to simplify bezel removal and install.
The shift indicator is blanked off with ABS plastic and three indicator lights installed
--Blue (top) high beam
--White (middle) Parking Brake. Made this a separate circuit from the Master Cylinder
--Red (bottom) Parking Brake
42 wires mostly tamed: Used already wired Deutsch plugs because I did not want to deal with connecting wires to 56 Molex pins. On the right, two ground wires (in plastic loom) are joined with bullet connections to the rest of the wires grounded to the steering column bracket to simplify bezel removal and install.
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Wiring Completed
Completed major wiring work for the fuse panel 4 spade terminals and components powered by the top-left fuse.
Through the four spade terminals
"BAT" - Overhead console and receiver memory
"ACC" - power receiver and its illumination. Factory radio plug powers eq, mp3 player and remote turn on (two amps and eq)
"LPS" - 7 dash gauge lights
"IGN" - electric choke, power for LH dash gauges, middle dash indicator lights
The three orange power wires were extensively modified or replaced with new circuits.
Dome light on a new circuit. Orange wire to the trunk not being used
Glove box - added new addition. Has a separate contact switch and light
The 8-pin plug is for wires attached to 5 switches installed in the center console.
Completed major wiring work for the fuse panel 4 spade terminals and components powered by the top-left fuse.
Through the four spade terminals
"BAT" - Overhead console and receiver memory
"ACC" - power receiver and its illumination. Factory radio plug powers eq, mp3 player and remote turn on (two amps and eq)
"LPS" - 7 dash gauge lights
"IGN" - electric choke, power for LH dash gauges, middle dash indicator lights
The three orange power wires were extensively modified or replaced with new circuits.
Dome light on a new circuit. Orange wire to the trunk not being used
Glove box - added new addition. Has a separate contact switch and light
The 8-pin plug is for wires attached to 5 switches installed in the center console.
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