75 Bumblebee LT4 Gen V swap

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by SPG, Oct 7, 2018.

  1. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    You will have to call classic dash, ask for paul, and say you're looking for the bumblebee dash panel
     
  2. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    Great progress. We’re you working with the garage door open? I accidentally left the garage door open last night and my wife went to leave for work this morning and her car in the garage said 14 degrees. That was with the garage heater running all night with the door open.
     
  3. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    We had a relatively warm weekend, around 60 during the day, but it dipped to low 40s at night.

    We tried welding at night but using the 110v before I hooked up the 220v plug and the welder kept tripping the breaker, so we had the door open to continuously reset it. (why my breaker is outside I have no idea, it's very annoying)
    Finished everything we wanted to accomplish right when it was getting cold again on day 2
     
  4. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    Thank you @70 Proof For the LEDs. I probably won't use them for at least 4 years, but nice to have.
    PXL_20210310_021531249.jpg

    I have a question for you guys, right now I'm thinking of all the ways to add rigitity to my car without having a roll cage, I have already welded my floors together as suggested by a few others, thanks again @thesalboy for the photos. so my next step would be for the subframe, right now I have been looking at two options.

    First option is a chassisworks system that adds a bar from the front subframe to the firewall and you weld it together (the bar is removable, just have to weld attachment points)
    7060-f2-a_2_.jpg
    The other option is from pro-touring fbody gbraces
    [​IMG]
    (photo by @NOT A TA )

    Last option is to obviously not do anything

    Pros of the CA option, probably more ringed as main mount points will be welded directly to the car, less busy look. Live 30 minutes away, can just wing by and pick it up, and go back and complain with issues.
    Cons, concerned I might have issues with my brake options, most likely will be forced into hydroboost brakes, stock brake boost is incompatible.

    Pros of G brace no brake issues from what I know, had adjustability for variations in your car since it's a bolt on kit. Will allow me to use stock style brake booster (which I might have to ditch anyways due to the lack of vacuum my car may produce)
    Cons, might not be as strong as the CA option

    Pros of doing nothing, don't have to worry about it, everything fits, move on with my life.
    Cons, knowingly leaving a potential flex point on the car

    Also, the math backs up that these braces do actually function, thats not why I'm asking these questions. Let me waste my money.
     
  5. thesalboy

    thesalboy Veteran Member

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    Not sure about PTFB, but I would think that tubing option would preclude using stock (or maybe any) inner fenders...?

    I don't have any front reinforcements. Even after DSE (welded-in) subframe connectors, unless the car is properly supported - jack stands under both front and rear of front subframe, or wheels on ramps - I cannot safely open the doors. My gaps are tight enough that the small change from the front droop looks like enough to chip paint - I will never find out, of course. Car feels totally solid on the road - I haven't yet driven it in anger.
     
  6. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    Didn't even think about that, that alone would make me want to not even consider them. I'll probably have to reach out to get more info on it as the site only mentions stock style brake booster doesn't work.
     
  7. berg2695

    berg2695 Veteran Member

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    Go with the G-braces. I'm no engineer, but those long, bent tubes don't look like they would do much if they end at the firewall. That bend in them means that they would have to be really heavy to have much rigidity. The G-braces have much better triangulation, I think.
     
  8. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Also the G brace has more adjustability , and you will want the added brackets from Not A TA , to add even more ridgid mounting
     
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  9. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    I think I'll probably go with the PTFB one, one less thing I have to worry about welding
     
  10. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Veteran Member

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    Are you planning to delete heat and A/C?
    Headers or manifolds?

    Just some things to consider.

    For my project I'm holding off ordering front subframe bracing and subframe connectors until I get my motor and trans set in place to see how much room I'm going to have. From what I've been told these types of bracing need to be installed almost the last thing you do. Idea is you want the complete weight of the vehicle on there preferably with wheels on the ground or drive on ramp before you secure these types of bracing.

    No expert, just this is what I've been told.

    Your car is coming a long nicely by the way :)
     
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