77 Coupe Resto

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
Those look like the right bolts. I wouldn’t fret too much about it unless you’re doing a concourse resto. Probably find a flange head bolt at the hardware store that will work fine.
I did order the correct bolts for that cross member and have them in now. Spent this past weekend transferring the 75's passenger inner fender to the 77 also.

Of note to anyone else doing this, the 77 inner fender mounts to a small triangle type of bracket at the firewall.There are three bolts for that bracket. However, the 75 Inner fender has a different mounting system so the steps to use the 75 are that you have to first remove the 77's small bracket from the firewall, Then bolt the bolt the 75s longer bracket that runs up the inner fender. You will likely have to elongate the inner mounting holes so the bolts will match to the holes. I used a steb drill bit and opened them up and used washers with the original bolts.

After that, everything else mounts up like the original.
inner-fender-from-75-done.jpg


Other things I did this weekend was finish the passenger side subframe to radiator bushings, repainted that inner fender, replace the hoses to my heater core which were not there when I bought it and I replaced the bolts to the radiator support arms with OEM bolts I ordered. A lot more to do, but those were some big steps toward the finish line.
 

Quazit

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Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, I was forced to repair the lower valance a couple of weeks ago. When I got this 77, it had 1/4 of a piece of it left. The PO gave me two halves that overlapped and I WAS going to try to repair those. However when I picked up the 75, it had the valance on it. It just needed repair.

So in the photos are my repairs, both ends where it bolt son and all three bolt mounting points and other minor spots.

After I finish with the bottom of the radiator ( I made a new rubber piece that protects the lower radiator and need to screw that on and bolt down the rt. subframe/radiator mount. I will bolt it back on. I am convinced that I am better at paint prepping metal than I am fiberglass however

I would say all three lower mount holes were shot, the two outboard holes were just gone. The center lower hole was an annoying repair. The easy ones were the l/r sides where the clips took off the fiberglass when they were removed, so I just decided to redo them all.

I used regular fiberglass and fiberglass cloth for the repair. I tried a products allegedly made for this material, but it was much more difficult to work with and this should hold up just fine.
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
Recently ran across a local parts source called Sundell Auto, ran locally (North Carolina) by Eric Sundell. While looking for a drivers side toe pan, and after NPD sent me a 68 pan after telling me it was a 77, I asked Eric and Sundell if they had the toe pan. His honesty was much appreciated and he informed me that their toe pan was $190.00 but the left (DS) Pan with toe board was $220. So, I ordered it and he delivered it himself to my front door.

The pan was better quality that what I was ordering from NPD, had the seat bolt holes and drain holes atc already precut. I look forward to cutting it and welding it in soon.

If anyone is looking for any 60-70-80 GM parts (Not just camaro) I would highly recommend checking them out and calling if you're looking for anything in particular.


Tell Eric, Charles from Dallas recommended them.
 
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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
Almost finished with the floor pans.

The right side are all NPD pans. The left toe pan to seat pan are from Sundell Auto. better quality and holes are already there.

Left to do will be the passenger toe pan top portion, the drivers tow pan and button up both rear seat pans on the rear side.
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
I removed the headliner from the 75 this past weekend to put it in storage as well for later installation. Also still need to weld the lower doors and a few body spots that I had forgotten.

This weekend I will install the stainless main brake line which I ordered from InLine then hopefully bleed the brakes. If I don't bleed them, it means I decided to order the rest of the brake lines and wait on the installation of all new lines. (Havent checked all of the lines just yet).

No video sorry folks, but uploads have made that cumbersome, at best.

I did pick up a creeper. Got tired of dropping my fat self on my garage floor to get under it.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, didn't get to the brake line install today. I did however finish all but the drivers toe pan. That was a huge sucess today.

I did however notice that my brake on the drivers front was leaking slightly and repaired that after the pans were done. Getting very close to being done, and I'm very excited about that.


282512451_2036075183238439_2937475909540461669_n.jpg
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
434
Dallas, North Carolina
As I mentioned in another thread. I installed the lines but Inlines lines do not match this car. So, I will be sending my lines to them to duplicate.

Also, I know I havent updated much lately, but I went under the car last week and removed a ton of surface rust on the rear end and rails, etc. She is getting closer. I need to finish the drivers toe board/pan (Most difficult one in my opinion) and then get the interior back in.

I have the 75 donor in the back yard that has sway bars and upgraded goods I need to look at before wasting too much time doing it all twice. The 75, I believe has a posi rear end with chrome axle cover and sways. So I hope to be looking at that this week. Also ordered the rear lower tail panel thats rusted out form Camaro Central today to I can replace my rusted one.

I replaced the hood latch with the 75. It fits but I need help adjusting the hood opening. I have lowered the corner closers (Not sure what they're called, the little posts that you can adjust for hood height) and tried to adjust the hood latch, but I can't get it to pop open without someone pushing down on the hood for it to release. The pull is extremely hard to pull unless someone puts downward pressure on the front of the hood.

Any suggestions on making those adjustments?
 

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