77 Coupe Resto

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
473
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, it has been a winter and now 100 degree outside. But FINALLY, I got the last floor pan to weld in.

Spent the day cleaning up all fuel line connections, removing as much underside surface debris as I could while It’s on jack stands and get this thing ready to burn in.

Next up I think since my automatic transmission is leaking, it’s next on my list. Looks like the rest of the exhaust pipes need to go from the engine back to remove it?
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
473
Dallas, North Carolina
Had a local guy selling this rusty piece of junk yesterday, had it delivered to my door for a couple hundred. Already sanded to metal and sprayed rattle can primer on it (Two different primers on it because that's all I had). Can't wait to get this mounted on the 77.

Somehow re-injured my back and have been unable to walk the last week. Will get back to it when I can.

In the meantime, I was bleeding brakes and the driver's rear bleeder sheared off in the backing plate. I couldn't get the master off of the plate, so I removed the rear end, drained, pulled out the axle shaft and just redid the entire backing plate and brake cylinder. IT gave me an opportunity to see how the gears look and they look good. When my backs back up to par I'll put it back together. For now, I can't stand up or lift a gallon of pain it hurts so bad. (I was run over by a humvee in the 80s and it's creeping up on me now that I'm 56)

I also pulled the transmission cover and flex plate cover, no leaking transmission it's just the pan. I have already buttoned it back up and refilled it, just need to see why one corner has a slow drip all of the time. I found that the PO used some cut off bolts in that area and I think he may have torqued them down too much and jacked up the corner. (Nothing visible, but it must be warped by that hole)
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
473
Dallas, North Carolina
Well this past weekend I was well enough to get back under the car. I have the transmission pan almost licked. I think I'm going to silicone the bolts one at a time and see if that nips it in the bud.

I also pulled out the old fuel rail (hard line) to fuel pump to the passenger door out and installed one that came off of the 75. Mine had been pinched almost shot form someone jacking the car up sometime in its past. I was going to just cut it and make the rubber line longer, because I was worried I couldn't get the rail out without a big struggle. But, after a little patience minor bending I finally got the line reinstalled and buttoned back up as well.

I still haven't welded in the drivers pan yet. It has been 94 degrees and with a hurt back that wasn't going to be a fun thing to do so I've been putting it off.

I also used the power pressure bleeder to bleed all four of the brakes. I will probably do that a couple of more times since all of my lines were emptied when I installed all new lines.

I also pulled out the interior ebrake that was rusted so badly it wasn't moving anyway.

Still to do:

Drivers Pan
Attach the E-brake mount back to the bottom of drivers pan.
Reinstall interior/Headliner
Reinstall seat slides ( I think I need to find one spring for them that was broken-likely have it on the 75 in the back yard).
Finish the drivers side body repair below the window corner.
Replace or repair the drivers side lower door that's rusted about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom.
I still need to order new rubber and sweeps for windows and trunk.
Re-adjust spoiler with rubber and shims where needed to line it all back up.
Fill with gas and get he back on the road again. :)
 

DougD

Veteran Member
Dec 2, 2014
543
Bradenton, FL
In this rebuild, I've ditched the chrome pan I put on in the days of shows. Went with a simple solid steel that's not the thin junk that leaks. Don't know your pan, maybe this idea helps.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
473
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, moving ahead. Working on the drivers door this weekend. Waiting on the repair piece to be delivered...
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
473
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, after skinning my drivers door, finally got it all lined back up without removing the quarter and outer sweep reinstalled. New felt guides too. She feels way better than she did. Also rebuilt the lower hinge from parts off of my 75.

I also welded the holes some moron drilled for hood pins in the wrong spot.

Next up:
Getting the transmission pan to stop Leaking, order new sound barrier and carpet and minor stuff to get her all back on the road.


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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
473
Dallas, North Carolina
Today mounted the new door seals. They have you self-tapping screws for the upper corners, but I had some old body screws for something that were the same at the old screws and replaced with those, since they had a washer on them. The ones provided had no washers, so I figured they're going to pull through at some time.

Also worked on the drivers' inner door panel. Removed the staples holding the old plastic upper and added a metal aluminum shim behind the cardboard panel and reapplied staples, (where the old staples had pulled through the old cardboard) so its again attached to the inner cardboard panel.

Also removed all of the staples from the inner sweep. When I get the chance, I will reattach the material to the plastic upper, then drill holes and add the new staples for the sweep.

The door seals seem to fit great except the front top portion. There doesn't seem to be enough attaching points to make sure it closes well. I may add some kind of black adhesive or silicone just to make sure it doesnt move.

Looked at the trassmission also The th350 seems to have a minor leak. But I think its coming from the drivers corner where the linkage is attached. Is there a seal there I need to look at replacing?
 




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