77 Coupe Resto

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, today I reinstalled my visors, my seat belt mechanism covers In the back seat and cleaned it up a bit.

Soon it will be back on the road. I’m more than excited and proud of all of this work.

I need suggestions for a real product that will bring the black dash etc back from
Dull though. It has been cleaned several times and is just as dull as can be.

I’m the pics you’ll see the headliner I brought out of the 75 parts car. I’m happy with it even if the board is bulging a little. I can redo that any time.

The floor mats are ugly but they’ll do for now to protect the carpet.

There are a few minor things to do inside: finish installing all Of the headliner molding screws, repaint that drivers seat belt mechanism cover that looks blue instead of black, coat hangers, seat belt loops on the tops Of the seats. (Was a new one but it snapped as soon as I installed it.)

The package tray is just open for now.

Almost ready to see if I want to tackle installing the windows myself or hire a team for three fifty to do it.

Still need to finish the muffler/pipes as well. Haven’t replaced the stock Muffler yet. May straight pipe it, and cut it from right before the cat?

Thoughts on those things anyone?

Any suggestions comments are very welcome. And yes all of the final body work and then paint will come later since I had to redo the entire interior pans etc.



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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Finally! After a long slow year she is running again. Waiting for the muffler, the windshield and rear windows to be reinstalled, finish that package tray and sort out why now I don’t have running lights. (New headlight switch)

But I can’t thank all of you enough for all of the great wisdom and advice.

It’s not done completely but after recharging the battery and a jump box she fired right up.

Have a minor break leak by front drivers side, notice I may have to change the rear end shaft seal(have some fluid there) order a couple Of good tires.

At that time, will recheck all brakes running gear for issues and then get the title finally changed over. I am stoked to say the least!
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
I posted another thread to deal with my no interior/driving and rear lights issue so I won't re-post that conversation here.

Received my muffler today and received the drivers side tail pipe from summit this week. I already see the summit is not a direct fit, since the bracket is welded in a funky manner (They need a new welder or should leave off the bracket altogether). Hope to see how I can mount that stuff tonight and work on the lighting issues.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Spent the day working out the muffler items. The tailpipe for the drivers side from Summit was 4” too short where it goes to the muffler. Luckily I had purchased extra pipe pieces from auto zone and had them handy. Welded on 4” and now she fits like she’s supposed to with original clamps.

Passenger side had rusted off about 2.5” at the tailpipe end. So I welded that back on then cut it at an angle to match the drivers side .


I do have one concern when I repaired the return line from the tank, I had to use a small 2” piece of rubber hose to mate the return line back up side it was a corroded and rusted through with holes.

Now that this is assembled I see the muffler is really close to that rubber short piece. Should this be any cause for concern? Those are held on by hose clamps on each end. Will the heat be an issue on that rubber hose and should I pull it all and find another fix now? I don’t need no fires.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
So I did a thing today.

This is the rear of the 75s cluster.

Bought some copper foil and did a little repair work on it in hopes of using the regular gauges .

We shall see…
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
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Well finished putting this back together.

Someone suggested replacing the clock with something else, but what ? I just can’t see paying to have this changed to a quartz movement or buying another.

So, suggestions? I don think it’s working. I hooked it to Power and ground and although the points “click”, I see nothing else.

The lens cover is missing because some iackwagon used nail
Polish remover (acetone) on it and it’s not worth using. I’ll buy another (if all of this works) or use the one from my 77 dummy gauge cluster.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Oh forgot to mention I think?

My 75 harness is already wired for this ( I checked with the on site diagram in the other threads. So should I cut the 75 harness and add it to the 77 or… do the pin out change?

Was thinking if I used about 6”
Or more of the u14 wiring from the 75s harness I could solder it inline and leave the 77 dummy gauge harness intact.

Too many issues there to deal with?
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
I probably overthought all of this, but I want it right when Im done.

Yesterday I finally bit the bullet and ordered a new printed circuit for the U14 gauge cluster using the last link from @Twisted-metal.

In the meantime, I'm going to use a couple of threads here to do a restoration probably of the mounting tabs and maybe paint the face of the gauge holder plate.


I have already done the pin switch on the cluster harness. If you want to make removing those pins very easy, use the little screwdriver from an eyeglass repair kit. Slide it down the back of the pin where the blade of the wire comes out of the plastic housing, and it just pops the little tab enough and the wire comes right out.

As far as me repairing the cluster using the copper foil. It did work, and I installed it. But the repair needs to be thought out a little more so that the copper sheet adheres to the original cluster circuit better. I noticed when I pulled out the cluster connector that it was pulling on the repaired areas and I didn't want to worry about that later.

Will update more when I receive the new printed circuit.
 
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