77 Coupe Resto

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Well, today I received the brand new printed circuit. The other day I received the led bulbs that @Twisted_Metal had suggested in another thread. Temporarily hooked up the cluster today. Also flipped that dome light switch plug for the led dome light. Now have a dome light. A very bright one.

STILL NO GAUGE LIGHTS:

I still (as I said in the other thread) do not have any other gauge lights. Aren't some of the gauge lights just ambient light controlled by the headlight switch and or door?

My bright light indicator works (Blue indicator light), my turn signals work (Bottom green lights) but I see no ambient lights at all. Not good for night driving lol. What else could I be missing here?

The lights under the column didn't turn on either. (Heater control, etc. Might be of note that I have not hooked back the heater controls or cig lighter plug back to the stitches and housing yet. Not sure if they are part of a circuit for the ambient lights or necessary for them to work.

DOME LIGHT DOOR SWITCH ISSUE:

Unfortunately for whatever reason, the driver's door doesn't activate the door shut off switch for the dome so I had to unhook the battery for now. It's weird, this is the original door, but the switch just misses the metal when you close the door. I will have to find a solution for this. Has anyone see this before on their and how did you correct it?

I did repair the tabs on the cluster housing thanks to the tutorial on this site as well. Although I passed on using the metal foil over them as I dont believe that lends much support.

Overall I'm happy I have some lights.
 

xten

Veteran Member
Sep 24, 2014
4,991
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Check the length of the tube on your pin switch, comparing it to the one on the passenger side. I've had that tube go into the housing for that switch so it becomes shorter and doesn't contact the door when it closes. Had battery drain issues that I couldn't find. Would get out of car, interior lights would go off. One night I went to the car about an hour later and interior lights were on. Drivers side tube was slowly sliding in and lights would come on. Maybe yours is stuck in and too short to contact the door?
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Check the length of the tube on your pin switch, comparing it to the one on the passenger side. I've had that tube go into the housing for that switch so it becomes shorter and doesn't contact the door when it closes. Had battery drain issues that I couldn't find. Would get out of car, interior lights would go off. One night I went to the car about an hour later and interior lights were on. Drivers side tube was slowly sliding in and lights would come on. Maybe yours is stuck in and too short to contact the door?
I will look at that this evening. It looked like it was just missing the metal of the door. (Not that it looked short, but the pin switch was going into where the door panel is, not on the metal portion itself)>

But I will check again and appreciate you mentioning this for sure.
 

xten

Veteran Member
Sep 24, 2014
4,991
Pittsburgh, Pa.
I just looked at the pin switch in my 77. It hits the very inboard edge of the door near the door panel. do you think it's possible that the pin switch is bent toward the inside of the car? It wouldn't take much. Mine just barely hits the metal.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Posting this in the event anyone needs it.
 

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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
I still have not figured out why I can't get the car started.

I took out the U14 cluster and redid the pins again on the harness plug just in case that was it.

Still no go. I have the Fasten Seatbelt Light, the Gen light and Brake light flashes, but no click or start.

I redid the reverse lockout switch before I did the cluster. Could that be causing this? I loosened it today but ran out of energy before I could go in there testing it.

Fuses are all still good.

The ign switch was replaced, and its finicky with the Buzzer on and off, but I don't know if that's it or not. Could the rod going down the column have caused this since I dropped the column for the gauges?

I need to troubleshoot more but this is very frustrating. Had the battery topped off at Autozone, and it's on a charger, so I know that's not it.

I also tapped the starter with a hammer a couple of times, no difference.

Wasn't there a way to engage starter without turning the ign switch?
 
Last edited:

tom3

Veteran Member
Aug 1, 1999
15,163
ohio
Not sure of your wiring setup buy you can jump with a screwdriver the top big post on the starter solenoid to the small inner terminal (purple wire?) to energize the starter. For sure, double check that the car is out of gear, in neutral/park.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Not sure of your wiring setup buy you can jump with a screwdriver the top big post on the starter solenoid to the small inner terminal (purple wire?) to energize the starter. For sure, double check that the car is out of gear, in neutral/park.
Thanks Tom.

Ill try this tomorrow. That would rule out it being the starter side at least.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
622
Dallas, North Carolina
Can anyone help me troubleshoot this no start? As far as the wiring, its all stock.

I dont think its in the gauges and I dont know what else to consider. :(

I need some ideas. I can't figure this out.
 




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