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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Camaromurph, Jul 6, 2019.
I’d just like my money back as this breakfast was a little under cooked.
Okay, on with the build. For those of you that didn't jump over with the link to my rearend rebuild that is mostly done. Pic of where I am at with that attached.
I also started getting my rear springs set up to reinstall. They are stock replacements from Eaton Detroit Spring. Great customer service from Mike. Answered all my questions. The new springs have about 1/2" more arch than the worn out originals. Made perfectly to the dimensional specification. These are NLB (LB) coded springs which were original to my Z28.
All this while continuing to scrape undercoating.
Looking really nice! Are you replacing the shackles? And did you need to replace the pockets ??! Not sure that they are called, the parts on the rear spring bushing.
Yes, I am replacing the shackles. Got new factory replacements. Not sure what pockets you mean so I will attach some pictures. What I would call the front spring pockets where the front spring eye bracket bolts in 3 places looks real good on both side. The rear frame rails where the shackle bolts up aren't quite as nice. The frame rails and bushing tubes are totally solid all the way back but are showing some signs of surface rust. I plan to use Eastwood internal frame coating on the inside of the frame rails and will scuff the exterior rearmost sections and hit them with Eastwood rust encapsulater. Hopefully the pictures help answer the questions about condition as well. I can't say the lower tail panel is in as good of shape but it still seems solid up where the bumper bolts through.
Looks good and should clean up nice, I see that the spring pockets need to come out to change the bushing, I get it now!
Finally done cleaning off undercoating. I'm just going to give it a coat of wax for some protection. It's not a show finish but is good enough for me. (at least for now).
Damn dude, that's clean!
I was just under my car and was thinking about how filthy it was with the undercoating, oil and dirt dropping into my face and ears while I was working.
Decided since I was down there I would hit the rear frame rail internals with internal frame coating. They didn't look too bad but were starting to show some corrosion at the very rear between the shackle bushing and tailpan. I also took the opportunity to clean up the inner rear tailpan. Certainly some corrosion there but the permanent repair will come when the bodywork happens. At least for now the corrosion there has been stopped.
I taped up all the openings in the frame rails. At first I didn't think I would tape up the seams as well but thought better safe than sorry so I taped up all the flanged seams for the frame rails as well. I'm glad I did as the internal frame coating is very thin and will find it's way out of even the smallest of openings. While I wanted the internal frame coated I did not want my nice clean underbody all screwed up. It all turned out nice.
I thought that stuff was thicker, thanks for posting or I would have made a huge mess, how long did it take to dry and stop dripping?
Started getting the rear all put back together. Started with getting the new rear section fuel lines and front to rear brake and vapor return lines run. Since the LT4 doesn't require a fuel return line I left that out. The LT4 will handle a vapor return through a solenoid on the engine some my plan is to run the original vapor return line to the charcoal canister and then to the engine.
Got the pinion and axle bumper brackets reinstalled. Have I mentioned how much I hate reproduction parts? I know I am a little weird with my drive for originality in a restomod type build but that's just me. I had bought original flanged nuts for the axle bumpers an then purchased the reproduction axle bumpers from The Parts Place (over a year ago). The axle bumpers came in with TWO different threads on the studs. One was metric course threads and the other was metric fine threads. Guess the aftermarket supplier had the studs they would mold into the bumpers mixed up in the bin. All that and the originals were not metric so my original nuts nor the replacement original nuts would fit on either. In fairness, if you didn't care about using original nuts the nuts supplied with the reproduction axle bumpers at least fit the metric course thread bumper and could have been used.
Started installing the rear leafs and axle and ran into the same quality problems with the reproduction rubber components. The shackle bushings (Moog) were about 3/16" longer than the originals and significantly harder. Just to verify I purchased some NOS originals and confirmed both the length and diameter were different. The Repro's were between 1/16"-1/8" smaller in diameter and 3/16" longer. The repros were definitely a harder durometer as well. This went as well with the rubber axle pads. These were MCI (muscle car industries) reproductions. The lower axle pad was 1/4" shorter than the upper, neither were wide enough to fit over the leaf springs and the molded recesses for the leaf spring pins were molded with the wrong size on the wrong pad. The upper pad should have the small hole (for the upper round pin head) and the lower pad should have a slightly larger hole to accommodate the hex nut on the other end of the pin. Once again, Found the uppers are still available from GM but the lowers are not. Found NOS lowers on ebay. The upper and lower GM pads were the same length, had the correct hole sizes in the correct pad for the leaf pin and fit over the width of the leaf correctly.
If people are going to the trouble of making a reproduction can't they just get it right. Seems to me like these are simple issues to resolve. The leaf spring pad issues seemed to be design and probably shrinkage issues during manufacturing. Okay enough of my rant. Some pictures of the progress.