'79 Z28

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by anesthes, May 9, 2010.

  1. anesthes

    anesthes Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Finally got around to putting the motor in.

    http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/projects/motorin/

    Was an automatic Z28. Interior is out, did the following:

    1) Graft in a manual hump, welded up, sealed
    2) sanded floors/rockers, sealed
    3) Removed big brake pedal, installed brake/clutch pedals
    4) Chased the threads for the z-bar bracket
    5) Made some adapters out of 3/4" square tube stock to mount thirdgen seats to second gen tracks. Result is a set that is the same height as a second gen seat, but a little nicer.
    6) modified the radiator support, dropped the bottom 3" to use a huge aluminum race radiator (31x20). Made custom upper brackets with rubber bushings to hold the radiator. Then made custom brackets to use a thirdgen fan setup. (which will be run off a thermostatic switch).

    7) Dropped motor in, set alternator and power steering. I need to get the trans in next.

    The paint was mint, but the previous owner failed at rust repair before having it shot so I need to fix a lower fender, and a lower rear quarter. Going to sand the whole car down, block it, and reshoot it. color undecided.


    Previous owner replaced rotors/pads, ball joints, all steering linkage and tie rods. Although the left side ball joint does NOT appear to be seated all the way up into the control arm. Not sure what is up with that. Might throw a press on it and see if it will go the rest of the way.

    Car is mostly rust free. A few minor things here and there.

    Motor is a 400 bored .060 over. Forged everything, hydraulic roller cam, AFR heads, air gap intake and a 750 carb. Long tube 1 3/4" headers, into 2 1/2" exhaust with flowmaster mufflers.

    Between the car, a parts car I bought, the motor I built, everything, and my 'budget' for paint, I'll have just under $10,000 into the build. Actually, all that is left to purchase is some paint and refinishing supplies, of which I budgeted around $800 for materials. (paint/sealer/reducer/paper/etc)

    I guess 10k is reasonable for a 550hp street car..?

    -- Joe
     
  2. RD400HP

    RD400HP Veteran Member

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    Good job Joe, do you have any more pics of the fab work you did to your Z? My neighbor has a 79 Z with a 4spd sitting outside rusting out. He said he's the original owner & he told me the garage he was storeing it in fell on it and put a few dents in the roof & quarter and other places & broke the windshield. Figuired I'd go down & offer him $500 and see if he bites on it.

    Mark
     
  3. anesthes

    anesthes Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks Mark!

    I'll take some more pictures. Little welding here and there. :)

    My friends horse had a foal last night, so I'm swinging by their farm after work to check the little guy out, then I'll probably head home and snap some pictures.

    -- Joe
     
  4. anesthes

    anesthes Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Couple things.

    HAYS 10-130, Ram, and Procomp flywheels are all .640 thick, so to use a clutch disc with large springs you have to mill or cut the inside of the flywheel to bring the bolts farther away from the surface. After turning mine on a lathe to a final thickness of .210 where the bolts go, I got that all bolted up.

    Next I picked up a lakewood scatter shield, and indexed it. It required two .014" offset dowels to keep it right. But that with the block plate should keep my feet safe.

    For now I'm running the saginaw, which I got for $100. I had to order a hurst install kit ($135), and shifter ($56 used) but It's just a temporary transmission.

    I noticed the pinion seal seems like it was leaking a little on the rear diff, so I'm going to change that and refill with gear lube before installing the trans and driveshaft.

    Headers are going out tomorrow to be coated ($175), and if all goes well hopefully I can have the drivetrain together by the end of the week.

    My left front fender has typical rust/rot, and my right front has bondo from a previous repair. I'm cutting both off just under the body line and replacing with some panels from classic industries.

    Right rear quarter, in front of the rear has the typical damage as well. Replacing it with a panel I'll cut a few inches below the body line.

    Z bar bracket is on the frame, but I also need to drill a hole for the linkage. Installing the pedal was all sorts of fun..

    I also have two small holes int he frame I need to patch, which I will do with some .120" steel.

    It's looking like, from purchase price, to all parts, and eventually shooting it with paint the project is going to be just about/ a hair over $10,000

    Of course, if I end up having to put a TKO or some other stronger transmission in it it's going to blow the budget by whatever that cost is..

    I guess either way, for an eventually clean '79 Z28, 550hp on tap it's reasonable..?

    -- Joe
     
  5. anesthes

    anesthes Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Trans is in. So, if you're using a scattershield and an SFI flywheel, odds are the pivot stud will be short. Ordered one of those, mcleod # 16908 for $54.

    The hurst linkage works great with the ITM shifter. Throw seems good. I was about an inch and a half to two inches off putting my hump in, I think, so I had to cut it back just a hair to keep from 2nd or 3rd hitting the floor. But it looks good.

    Gonna finish the clutch linkage tomorrow, and get the exhaust done. Hopefully have it fired up by Monday or Tuesday.

    Still have body work to do, some wiring, and a few other things. It's close though!

    -- Joe
     
  6. anesthes

    anesthes Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Alllmost ready to fire up.

    In about two days, we'll start the body work.

    Less than 12" of rubber line per NHRA/IHRA rules. Scatter shield.



    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    -- Joe
     
  7. 1981zapper

    1981zapper Veteran Member

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    I don't want to be rude or anything but if i were you i would change the Glass fuel fitler, They can break and catch on fire very easy,
     
  8. sooner

    sooner Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Looks like a fun little ride so far, good job.

    What rear gear are will you be running, and any kind of traction devices in your plans?
     
  9. gs462

    gs462 Veteran Member

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    Motor looks good Id like to see the car, did you dyno the motor?
     
  10. anesthes

    anesthes Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    3.73 gears. THe previous owner put some traction bars on it. Not sure if they are staying or not.

    Probably run street tires anyhow. If it goes faster than 11.50 I'll get kicked out of the track. I'd rather see a 12x mph pass.

    No dyno yet. THe car right now doesn't look so hot. started cutting the fenders and rear quarters. Gotta weld in some patch panels. The interior is all out as well. The last guy who painted it sanded rust and mudded over rather than cutting and repairing.




    -- Joe
     

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